SaltwaterSense

The ABCs of Water Quality for the Saltwater Aquarium

Every marine aquarist knows that good water quality is a good thing in a saltwater aquarium, but what is good water quality? Good water quality is, generally speaking, water quality that is similar to or better than the environment from which the animals you keep originate. While there may be some variations based on what specific biotope you are recreating, there are about seven parameters which should be pretty consistent across all saltwater aquaria. They are:

• pH

• Temperature

• Specific Gravity

• Dissolved Oxygen

• Ammonium/Ammonia

• Nitrite

• Nitrate

Does Every Aquarist Need to Test for All Seven Parameters Every Day?

Every marine aquarist should know how to measure these seven parameters. Does that mean that every marine aquarist needs to test daily for these parameters? Absolutely not. The more experienced an aquarist becomes, the more he or she will understand the interrelated nature of these parameters. As such, the experienced aquarist, for example, will pay attention to an upward or downward trend in pH and be able to make an educated guess as to what is causing it. Likewise, the advanced aquarist will notice subtle changes in the tank (e.g., increased algae growth) and immediately have a hunch as to what parameter is out of whack. My advice? Test frequently when you are starting out in the hobby, and decrease the frequency of testing as you gain experience. Having said this, I suggest every aquarist should be very aware of any daily shifts in temperature, pH or specific gravity.

Target Values for Optimal Water Quality in a Tropical Saltwater Aquarium

So what values denote good water quality in the marine aquarium? Before I give specific ranges, allow me to harp on a point I have discussed here numerous times: consistency. To wit: within the specified range, consistency is way more important that hitting a specific number. For example, I say below that pH should remain consistent within a range of 7.9–8.6, but a consistent pH reading of 7.8 will be less stressful for your animals than a fluctuating pH between 7.9 and 8.6. In short, keeping the daily fluctuation in pH to no more than 0.3 is far more important to the health of your animals than hitting the magic 8.1 or 8.2. The same holds true for temperature and specific gravity.

Now that I have made my plug for stability, let’s get to the main attraction—the target values:

• pH: 7.9-8.6 with 8.1-8.2 being ideal

• Temperature: 74-80 degrees F (24-27 degrees C)

• Specific Gravity: 1.023-1.025

• Dissolved Oxygen: Around 6.0 ppm

• Ammonium/Ammonia: 0 ppm

• Nitrite: 0 ppm

• Nitrate: below 5.0 ppm for reef tanks and below 20.0 ppm for fish-only systems

So there you have it—the seven parameters of which you should be aware to assess optimal water quality in your saltwater aquarium. Means to test each parameter exist, and you should have the appropriate test kits and tools on hand. Go test!

Banggai Cardinalfish Notecards at Saltwaterfish.com Support Conservation

Those of you familiar with my writing know I care deeply about a small Indonesian fish known as the Banggai cardinalfish. Most saltwater aquarists are quite familiar with this aquarium favorite, but for those of you unfamiliar with the Banggai cardinalfish, you should know it is a fish whose conservation status may be in jeopardy as a direct result of the marine aquarium trade. In response, many in the marine aquarium trade have called for an all-out boycott of the species. While I have urged caution in regard to purchasing wild-caught Banggai cardinalfish until more information is available, I have also felt that the marine aquarium trade has not done enough to understand the actual situation on the ground in the Banggai Islands where the fish originates. Over the past year, I have therefore done my best to try to familiarize hobbyists with the state of affairs in the Banggai Islands based on numerous interviews with local individuals. I have published my findings here and in publications such as CORAL Magazine.

People frequently ask me what the harm is in an all-out boycott on the Banggai cardinalfish and why I have not supported such action. To me, a categorical boycott ignores the fact that a sustainable and robust marine aquarium trade can provide significant socio-economic benefit to developing island nations like the Banggai Islands. Now I am not suggesting that economics should trump conservation of a species, but I do believe strongly that the two are not mutually exclusive. Further, marine aquarists can and should be on the front line of reef conservation, and a fish like the Banggai cardinalfish can inspire aquarists here in North America to become strong advocates for threatened tropical marine ecosystems worldwide. Finally, while the Banggai cardinalfish issue has gotten the press time this past year, it is far from the most alarming conservation issue which faces our hobby.

As a writer, I believe that I can help the Banggai cardinalfish by educating hobbyists about the species, its conservation status and the role it can play in the socio-economics of the Banggai Islands. My wife, who is also a saltwater aquarist, has taken it upon herself to use her talents as an award-winning conservation artist to further raise awareness about the Banggai cardinalfish by directly supporting conservation and management initiatives in the Banggai Islands. To achieve this, she has created a Banggai cardinalfish notecard based on one of her original illustrations, and she is now selling the card to raise money for Yayasan Alam Indonesia Lestari (LINI), an Indonesian not-for-profit organization that has worked tirelessly in the Banggai Islands (and throughout Indonesia) to support the conservation and management of coastal marine resources. Karen and I are thrilled that Saltwaterfish.com, which has also worked closely with LINI, will now be selling Karen’s Banggai cardinalfish notecards with 100% of the proceeds going directly to LINI! Please join the effort to support LINI and the future of the Banggai cardinalfish by purchasing either a single notecard or a notecard set today.

Finally, I want to point out the fact that Saltwaterfish.com is starting off a month of festivities celebrating the company’s 10th anniversary. Look for outstanding promotions all month long beginning with $9.99 shipping on orders over $99.99!

Symbiosis in the Saltwater Aquarium

One of my favorite aspects of keeping a marine aquarium is the opportunity to observe symbiotic relationships up close. The reef is a highly competitive environment, and many reef animals develop relationships with other animals to increase their chances of survival. Some of these relationships benefit both animals, while others only benefit one of the two. Setting up the proper conditions to observe some of these relationships in the aquarium is, in my opinion, well worth the effort, and here are a few symbiotic relationships most aquarists with a stable, mature system can attempt to replicate in his or her system.

Clownfish-Anemone

The symbiotic relationship shared between a clownfish and an anemone is one of the most well-known and oft replicated symbiotic relationships within reach of most aquarist. To insure success, the aquarium must be able to support the anemone, which is, in general terms, a more difficult-to-keep animal than the fish. Most anemones require a stable tank that is at least six months old, and some anemones have even more specific requirements—so be sure to do your research. The bubble tip anemone (or BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor) is a good anemone with which to start, and many clownfishes will readily form a relationship with it. Having said this, not all clownfishes will host in an anemone, even if one is present in the aquarium.

Commensal Crab-Coral or Anemone

There are many crabs that will readily form a relationship with various invertebrates including both anemones and many coral species, especially from the genus Euphyllia (e.g., torch coral). The anemone or porcelain crab, for example, (Neopetrolisthes spp.) is a small, non-aggressive crab that will readily live within the tentacles of an anemone or coral species. Again, the conditions in the aquarium must be able to support the anemone or coral, and this usually means the tank will be mature (at least six months old) and stable. In addition, the salinity should be kept at near ocean levels, as most inverts will not do well in hypo-saline conditions.

Commensal Shrimp-Coral or Anemone

Like the commensal crab that lives in association with an anemone or coral, commensal shrimp will readily form a relationship with both coral species (especially from the genus Euphyllia) and anemones. One of the best commensal shrimps to keep is the so-called sexy shrimp (Thor amboinensis). This is a small shrimp with gaudy colors and a unique movement that resembles a somewhat lurid dance (hence the name). While they will host in anemones, the sexy shrimp does particularly well when living in close association with Euphyllia spp.  

Goby-Shrimp

The relationship formed between a goby and a shrimp is wonderful to watch. While it is possible to observe this relationship in a large reef tank, the pairing of a goby with an appropriate shrimp can easily be the centerpiece of a nano tank. In general, the goby will dig a burrow, which it will then share with the shrimp. When the shrimp ventures out of the burrow, it relies on the goby to make sure the coast is clear. Consider gobies from the genera Amblyeleotris and Stonogobiops and pair them with shrimp from the genera Alpheus and Synalpheus.

Conclusion

There are many other symbiotic relationships which the aquarists can host in his or her aquarium, but these are some of my favorite. Remember to check compatibility charts and to do your research with any species BEFORE you acquire it. In the case of commensal shrimp and crabs, it is often wise to purchase several of these animals if you are planning to add them to a community reef tank, as you may lose one or more from natural predation. To increase your chances of success, add the animals at night directly adjacent to the intended host.