SaltwaterSense

The Great Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) - An Ideal Saltwater Aquarium Fish

Several fishes and a number of shrimp engage in symbiotic cleaning behavior, and keeping some of these so-called “cleaner” animals in a saltwater aquarium adds interest, diversity and benefit to the tank. Of all the commonly available cleaner species, perhaps the all-around best is the diminutive (in size but not in color or personality) neon goby (Elacatinus oceanops).

The neon goby is a small (to 5 cm), reef-associated marine fish that inhabits the western central Atlantic Ocean from south Florida to Texas and south to Central America. While it can be found at depths of over 45 meters, it is frequently associated with shallow reefs where it sets up cleaning stations on coral heads. Readily identifiable by way of the bold electric blue stripe that runs from in front of its eye to the end of caudal fin, the neon goby is believed to advertise its services, at least in part, by way of this pattern (note that the Pacific cleaner fishes from the genus Labroides are also longitudinally striped).

Taxonomic Confusion

The Gobiidae family is the largest family of marine fishes with more than 2000 species described. Many aquarists still include the neon goby in the genus Gobiosoma, but this is not valid. Gobiosoma has recently undergone a taxonomic restructuring, and the neon goby is now properly placed in the genus Elacatinus, which was elevated to genus status (Gobiosoma was previously divided into five subgenera including Elacatinus). Taxonomy aside it should be noted that not all gobies closely related to the neon goby are cleaner gobies, but those that are will boldly advertise their cleaning services in both the wild and in the aquarium.

Neon Goby Husbandry

The neon goby is a common aquarium species, and many of the specimens available commercially are now tank-raised. Since as early as the mid-seventies, this species has been successfully reared in captivity. A group of neon gobies kept in the same tank will readily pair off and spawn, although it is wise to keep seven or more in a large tank so as to avoid any one individual being the target of too much inter-species aggression (one neon goby per 25-30 gallons is a good rule of thumb in my experience). A confirmed pair of neon gobies may be kept in a much smaller aquarium.

Once acclimated to its new surroundings, a neon goby should instinctually set-up a cleaning station. Generally this cleaning station is on a coral head, but in the fish-only system, it may simply be on a protuberance of live rock. This behavior may at first seem bold to the aquarist, and it is certainly unusual for a fish of this size living in a reef tank with larger (and even predatory) fishes. While there is a great deal of debate on this point, it seems most fishes recognize the role of the neon goby as a cleaner and will not act aggressively toward it in the aquarium (this is not the case, however, for predatory invertebrates like larger crabs).

Cleaning Duties

What exactly does the neon goby clean? The neon goby cleans ectoparasites, dead skin and other detritus from this fishes in your system. In many cases, the fishes will “ask” for this service by swimming up to the cleaning station and waiting for the neon goby to move onto the fish’s body. The fish being cleaned will commonly extend its fins and open its gill flaps and its mouth to give the goby full access. When the fish has had enough, it resumes its normal activity and the neon goby returns to the cleaning station.

Not an Obligate Cleaner

The neon goby is not difficult to keep in the aquarium, and it will readily accept most foods offered to your other fishes. Unlike some other cleaners, the neon goby does not need to clean in order to survive. In other words, it is not an obligate cleaner, and this is one reason it is such a fantastic aquarium animal. Do be sure to offer it small bits of food, as the neon goby possesses a very small mouth.

A Stellar Saltwater Aquarium Fish

The neon goby makes an absolutely fantastic marine aquarium fish. It is hardy, colorful and frequently visible in even a large community reef tank. The fact that it helps to clean your fishes of parasites and is often available as captive-bred specimens only adds value to this already stellar animal.

Saltwater Aquarists, Artists and Anglers on the Frontline of Marine Conservation

My wife is an award-winning educator and artist, and during the summer, she shows her work at the Sawdust Art Festival in Laguna Beach, California. This year she is focused on illustrations of fishes, especially some of those commonly kept in the marine aquarium. As such, she is surrounded daily by her illustrations of flasher wrasses, hawkfishes, gobies, Banggais and the like, and she spends much of her time describing the animals to the people looking at her work. Why am I sharing this with you? Because in listening to her yesterday explain the natural history of the Banggai cardinalfish to a tour group from Hurley, I realized that her tagline—“conservation through appreciation”—should really be the tagline of the marine aquarium hobby.

Karen believes that if her illustration of a fish is appreciated, and the viewer learns a little about the subject, it is not such a big leap for the viewer to come to appreciate the species itself. That appreciation of the species, combined with knowledge about the species, can then lead to a desire to conserve the species. It’s similar to when someone comes to our house for dinner and watches the animals in our 135-gallon reef tank in the dining room. Inevitably the animals become the topic of conversation, and conversations about threats to reef ecosystems are never far behind.

I’m not suggesting that looking at an aquarium should always lead to preaching environmental education from a soapbox. An aquarium, like a piece of Karen’s artwork hanging in a gallery, is something aesthetically pleasing and should be appreciated at face value. But Karen always also includes an “Artist’s Notes” sheet with every illustration she sells that explains a little more about the animal and some of the conservation issues it (or the ecosystem in which it lives) faces. She does this hoping that someone who appreciates her art enough to purchase it may also come to appreciate the subject of the artwork enough to conserve it.

Conservation is a big concept, and it may seem overwhelming at first, but in reality, conservation can begin at home. Protecting the world’s reefs, and the species which inhabit them, can begin with something as simple as lessening your carbon footprint. Even if you live in Iowa (why does Iowa always get picked on? I actually really like Iowa!), driving less, carpooling more, turning off the lights when you leave a room, and a million other small actions can have a cumulative conservation effect that helps save tropical reefs worldwide.

Here in Laguna Beach, California, we are undergoing a review to determine if the entire coastline should become a no-take marine protected area. This would mean that fishing may be prohibited along the entire seven mile swath of coastline I frequently travel with a fly rod in hand. While I support the concept of marine protected areas, I also worry that categorically prohibiting fishing along this coast will remove those individuals who are most in touch day-to-day with the ecosystem: the anglers. Call it job security if you like, but many anglers (myself included) care deeply about the resources because, at least in part, we want to continue recreating there. In other words, anglers, like reefers, can and should be on the front line of marine conservation.

I appreciate my wife’s ability to accurately render the colors of a Red Sea eightline flasher wrasse or the bone structure of a longnose hawkfish. I appreciate her illustrations, and, as a marine aquarist, I appreciate how her illustrations help me to understand the species better. This is why I love talking to people viewing Karen’s work at the Sawdust Art Festival because I see people come face-to-face with animals they never knew existed. While Karen donates 10% of all her proceeds to organizations that work to conserve aquatic ecosystems, I think the much larger impact of her work is to inspire curiosity, appreciation and, ultimately, conservation in anyone who views her illustrations.

So this week I challenge you to share your aquarium, and your knowledge about the animals that inhabit it, with someone new. Conservation through appreciation—it’s really that simple.

Avoiding Summer Algae Blooms in Your Tropical Saltwater Aquarium

A couple weeks ago, I wrote a blog entry about using a chiller to keep your tank’s temperature stable. Stability is, of course, absolutely essential to your system’s health. Even with a chiller, however, it is not uncommon for aquarists to see some additional algae growth during the summer months. Why is this? In many cases it has to do with a slight, but sustained, increase in system temperature throughout the summer months. It may also have to do with longer daylight hours or even direct sunlight hitting the tank (something that usually should be avoided). Of course summer vacations, additional yard work and days at the beach may also cut into some aquarists’ regular aquarium maintenance. Whatever the reason, if you have additional algae growth during the summer months, here are a few simple ways to address it.

Run Your Aquarium Chiller on a Controller

If you have an aquarium chiller, run it on a controller that also controls your heaters, fans and other system components. With a quality chiller, accurate temperature probes and a robust controller, you should be able to maintain less than one degree of temperature fluctuation in a 24-hour period. Using a controller, you can keep your tank at a consistent temperature year-round.

Condition the Air in Your Home

This is not my solution of choice, as I live in Southern California and have no air conditioning in my home, but many people can reduce summer algae blooms by controlling the ambient temperature in their houses (or at least in the room where the aquarium resides). If you live in a place that is very hot, this may be essential, unless you are prepared to run a very beefy and reliable (read expensive) chilling system. Keeping the room temperature stable can go a long way toward keeping the aquarium temperature stable during the summer months.

Protect Your Aquarium from Direct Sunlight

If direct sunlight is hitting your tank during the day, consider closing the curtains or shades at the time when the sun is at the right angle to reach the tank. Direct sunlight can cause algae blooms almost right before your eyes, and simply covering the window can make all the difference. In general, an aquarium should ideally be situated in a location where it is not exposed to direct sunlight, but if yours is, consider shielding it from the light.

Bolster Your Clean-Up Crew

While I am not a fan of “throwing animals at problems”, I do prefer to take care of issues in my aquarium with animals whenever possible. Summer algae blooms may remind you that it is time to bolster your clean-up crew. I am not suggesting you add a mess of algae-grazing animals to deal with a summer algae-bloom (you don’t want to have to feed them algae after the bloom is gone, now do you?), but strategically assessing your clean-up crew’s population is something all aquarists should do at least once a year. Perhaps a summer algae bloom will remind you that it’s time to add a few new algae-grazing snails or some reef-compatible hermit crabs.

Keep it Cool, But Keep it Stable

Following these simple suggestions should keep your tank stable and reduce summer algae blooms. Have a great summer!

    

Hobbyists Breeding Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes

I have a friend named Matt Wittenrich. He is the author of The All-New & Complete Breeder's Guide to Marine Aquarium Fishes (TFH Publications 2007), a very important book in the evolution of the marine aquarium hobby. Matt is currently pursuing his doctorate at the Florida Institute of Technology in Melbourne, Florida with research focusing on the development of feeding abilities in the larval stages of coral-reef fishes. Inspired to science by a love of marine aquaria since the age of 15, Matt successfully raised more than 56 species of marine fish and shrimp in his parent's basement in western New York.

He did that when he was still just a hobbyist.

Hobbyists are on the cutting edge of the marine aquarium industry, and the frontier before them is captive breeding. Today there is more information about breeding available to hobbyists than ever before. From online forums to print publications and local aquarium clubs, everyday hobbyists are engaged in dialogs with other hobbyists, marine biologists and commercial breeders. It is exciting, and it is important.

I do not subscribe to the view that a marine aquarium industry based solely on tank-raised fishes and inverts should be the goal. I believe that striking a balance between sustainable wild collection and captive breeding is essential. This is particularly the case when it comes to species that are threatened in the wild or ones whose survival record is dismal in the marine aquarium.

Mandarinfishes and filefishes have gotten a lot of airtime recently—these are both fishes that traditionally have not done well in aquaria. While new husbandry information has increased the chances of success with these animals, the reality is that the very great majority of the wild-caught individuals imported for the marine aquarium trade perish in the aquarium. So why give them the airtime in the hobby magazines? Won’t this only result in more people purchasing these fishes? And won’t that only result in higher mortality?

These are questions I know my friend Matt grapples with daily, as he has been one of the people who has “popularized” hard-to-keep species in the hobby magazines. And yet Matt sees a future where hardy captive-bred mandarinfishes are available to hobbyists—mandarins that readily accept a captive diet and mandarins who thrive in the home aquarium. Because of Matt's work, that future is now much closer than you may think.

There is an interview in the documentary “Hearts of Darkness” with filmmaker Frances Ford Coppola, where he talks about the next great filmmaker possibly being a kid in the Midwest with little more than a video camera and an idea. In the same way that technology has made making movies accessible to just about anyone with a camera phone, today almost any hobbyists can participate in the exciting and important work of breeding marine fishes. After all, Matt got his start as kid with a hobby in the basement of his parent’s home in western New York…

Go breed!

Angelfishes from the Genus Genicanthus are Fantastic Reef Aquarium Fishes

Many saltwater aquarists are inspired to take up the hobby after observing the beauty of an angelfish or the stunning, almost extraterrestrial, growth forms of coral species. Or both. Unfortunately, many angelfishes are incompatible with a reef tank, so keeping the two together is not a good idea. There is, however, one genus of angelfishes that is indeed quite suitable for the reef tank, and it is this genus I want to discuss today.  

Angelfishes from the genus Genicanthus are commonly called swallowtail or lyretail angelfish because of their distinctive tailfins, and they make great reef aquarium angelfishes. If you look closely, you will see that the species in this genus have small mouths. This is because these fishes are planktavores that feed primarily on plankton in the water column—not coral!

The upside to keeping angelfishes from the genus Genicanthus does not stop with their feeding habits, however. These fishes are, generally-speaking, long-lived and peaceful animals that make great community reef fishes, and their small size means they don’t require the massive amount of space that some of the other angelfishes require. Do be cautious when adding a Genicanthus angelfish to a reef tank housing smaller planktavores (especially certain gobies and wrasses), as the smaller fishes may be harassed as they compete for the same foodstuff.

Another great attribute to angelfishes from the genus Genicanthus is that they may be kept successfully in small groups. The aquarist may plan to keep one male with one or more females. Theses angelfishes, are known for their dramatic sexual dimorphism and dichromatism (in short, males and females are different in shape and color), which makes keeping a pair or small harem both behaviorally interesting and aesthetically appealing.

Members of the genus are generally parasite and disease resistant, but they should, like all fishes, be properly acclimated and quarantined.

Of the Genicanthus angelfishes most commonly available to the tropical marine aquarist, the bellus angelfish (G. bellus), the Watanabei’s angelfish (G. Watanabei), the Lamarck’s angelfish (G. Lamarck), and the swallowtail angelfish (G. melanospilus) are some of my personal favorites. If you are looking for the ideal reef-compatible angelfish, look no further than the angelfishes from the genus Genicanthus.

Do’s and Don’ts of Dottybacks in the Tropical Saltwater Aquarium

Pseudochromis, a.k.a. dottybacks, make some of the best saltwater aquarium fishes for the novice marine aquarist, but they are not without some pitfalls. Small, hardy and shockingly beautiful, dottybacks can also be little terrors if they are placed with the wrong tankmates. They are also known for losing their bold coloration and committing suicide by leaping from the tank. By adhering to the following “do’s and don’ts” of dottybacks, the novice aquarist can expect success with these wonderful little fishes.

• Keep only one dottyback per tank.

• Cover any tank which houses a dottyback with eggcrate.

• Make sure the aquarium has plenty of quality live rock with lots of hiding spots.

• Plan on having the dottyback be the smallest fish in the tank.

• If the dottyback is not the smallest fish in the tank, make sure the tankmates are semi-aggressive.

• Add the dottyback near (or at) the end of your stocking order.

• Use a specimen cup to hold the dottyback in the aquarium for a couple days upon introduction.

• Buy tank-bred dottybacks, as they acclimate better and are hardier.

• Feed a well-balanced diet of mostly high quality frozen, flake and freeze dried foods designed for carnivores.

• Periodically offer dottbacks small chunks of fresh, meaty table seafood (e.g., shrimp, clams, etc.)

• Periodically offer an herbivorous food to your dottyback.

• Maintain high water quality with robust filtration.

• Maintain high and stable specific gravity (salinity) in the 1.023 – 1.025 range.

• Keep the pH stable and high (8.1 or higher).

• Maintain a stable temperature with less than two-degree daily fluctuation.

Finally, if you're going to get a dottyback, consider the following, relatively peaceful dottybacks. These are my personal favorites for the beginning aquarist: the striped Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis sankeyi), the springeri Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis springeri), the bluelined dottyback (Pseudochromis cyanotaenia), or the orchid dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani). In addition, there are some beautiful hybrids such as the so-called indigo dottyback (Pseudochromidae fridmani x Pseudochromidae sankeyi).

Mixing Dwarf Angelfish Species in a Saltwater Aquarium

Centropyge angelfishes, commonly referred to as dwarf angelfishes by hobbyists, are known for their beauty AND their territorial behavior. The former is often the reason why aquarists choose to add one to their aquarium, and the latter is why many aquarists often add only one. While this may be a prudent course of action, there is, however, no reason that the thoughtful aquarist can’t keep multiple species of angelfishes from the genus Centropyge in the same aquarium.

Let’s keep in mind the big picture concepts. The reef is a highly competitive environment, and establishing and maintaining territory on the reef can be cutthroat. For a small fish, like many dwarf angelfish species, this can mean that the fish has evolved into a scrappy little tyrant. It’s not that the fish is “mean,” rather it is that the animal is simply genetically programmed to survive the competitive environment of the reef, and this behavior will carry over into the aquarium.

What does this territorial behavior look like in the aquarium? Chances are that a dwarf angelfish will be most aggressive with any fish that poses a threat. A threat may be perceived as any fish that naturally occupies the same niche on the reef, utilizes the same resources, (e.g., food) and may compete for reproductive mates. One can easily extrapolate from this that dwarf angelfishes of roughly the same size, shape and color, that exhibit the same feeding behavior, will be least likely to get along.

So let’s apply these concepts to stocking procedures in your aquarium. Because the dwarf angelfish is often scrappy and territorial, it should be added last (or close to last) in your stocking order. This gives all the other fishes in your aquarium a change to become established first. Unless the aquarium is very large, two dwarf angelfishes of the same species should usually be avoided by all but the most experienced aquarists. Likewise, angelfish species that are very similar in shape, size and color should be avoided.   

If you are going to add two dwarf angelfishes of different species, add them at the same time if at all possible. Keep the lights low during acclimation, and be sure the system is “mature” (read: plenty of algae on the live rock). Alternatively, add two pieces of live rock that are covered in algae at opposite ends of the aquarium. If you can’t add the two fishes at the same time, make sure that the second dwarf angelfish added to the system is the larger dwarf angelfish. For example, I would add a cherub dwarf angelfish (C. argi) to my system and then, several weeks later, consider adding a flameback angel (C. aurantonotus) or a flame angelfish (C. loriculus).

In general, the proper environment makes a difference when trying to house multiple Centropyge angelfishes of different species in the same aquarium. Basically this means the larger the aquarium the better, and the more live rock in the aquarium the better. Be sure the aquarium is not too “clean”, as providing algal growth on the live rock at which the fish may pick will occupy its time.

A large aquarium with loads of live rock and sufficient algae growth should be able to support two or more dwarf angelfishes of different species with no problem, if you follow the advice given here.

The Other Side of the Banggai Story

This morning I received my May / June issue of CORAL Magazine. The issue features mouthbrooders, and it is, as you would expect, beautiful. The thing that makes me the most pleased, however, is that it is the first major magazine to look at both sides of the Banggai cardinalfish issue. Now, granted, I’m biased, as I have an article in the issue, but I think we all should be pleased that at least one marine aquarium publication has stepped up and attempted to provide objective, unbiased coverage of an issue that is so central to both the hobby and the industry at large.

As I have written here before, I become concerned when we only look at one side of a story—any story. I’m not suggesting that the Banggai cardinalfish is not in dire straits as a species, and I’m not encouraging you all to run out and buy wild-caught Banggais, but I am encouraging you to educate yourself about the issue looking at both the hobby side and the supply side of the issue.

My article in the May / June issue of CORAL Magazine features an interview with Gayatri Reksodihardjo of Yayasan Alam Indonesia Lestari (LINI), and it the first time we are hearing from a person on the ground in Indonesia about this Indonesian species. Reksodihardjo believes a boycott on wild-caught Banggai cardinalfish is the wrong move at present, and, for a variety of reasons, she believes that a sustainable fishery for Banggai cardinalfish is not only possible, but important. I will be bringing more of her perspective to you here in future entries.

Am I suggesting we should all agree with her? Not at all, but I think we have a responsibility as aquarists to listen to what she (and others in Indonesia) has to say. I hope you get a chance to read the interview, and I hope you will continue the discussion about the Banggai issue here, in the Saltwaterfish.com forums, in the forums on my website, at aquarium club meetings, and at the local fish store. We don’t all need to agree, but we do need to be having the conversation based on accurate, objective information.

I will now step off my soapbox. Thanks for listening.

Aquarium Chillers Provide Insurance Against Summer Heat Waves

It’s May and, for many people, warm summer weather is just around the corner. Are you ready?

For the marine aquarist, warm temperatures outside can increase the temperature in your tank enough to, at best, cause unwanted algae blooms and, at worst, harm to your animals. While most of the animals we keep come from the Tropics, the temperature of a reef tank under metal halide lights can easily exceed the temperature of the tropical ocean. While some gamble during the warm summer months, hoping a heat wave doesn’t strike, the responsible thing to do is to have a plan for keeping your marine tank temperature stable regardless of the ambient air temperature.

Fans Can be Effective at Keeping Your Aquarium Cool

The simplest and least expensive way to cool a tank is to use fans. A fan (or fans) directed at the surface of the display tank or the surface of the sump can effectively dissipate heat. On my 135-gallon tank, I run a fan off my aquarium controller. When the water temperature hits a pre-set number, the fan kicks on and brings the temperature down. If the temperature continues to increase, the controller then shuts down my lights. While this strategy is effective, the downside is that the fan increases water loss due to evaporation making it necessary to top-off with more RODI freshwater than usual (absolutely essential to keep the specific gravity stable).

An Aquarium Chiller is the Best Insurance

While a fan or fans can effectively handle many tanks' temperature during the summer months, it is often best to have an aquarium chiller plumbed and ready to go. An aquarium chiller operates much like a refrigerator and cools your water to keep it within a pre-set range. Different chillers operate in different ways, but the two most common set-ups are drop-in chillers and external chillers. A drop-in chiller operates by using a coil that is submerged within your sump, while an external chiller requires water to be move through the unit and then back to your system.

Chillers are highly effective and offer insurance for summer heat waves. While they may at first seem expensive, the cost of a chiller is often negligible compared to the amount of money most aquarist have spent on their animals. There is no doubt that their operation will increase your electrical bill, but for most of us (in a well planned set-up), they will only be necessary in the summer.

Like all pieces of aquarium equipment, you get what you pay for, so be sure to spend a little more and get a reliable, energy efficient chiller. With the proper maintenance, it should provide you and your animals years of service. Check out the chillers on the site, especially the ones from AquaEuro USA.

Stay cool!

The Importance of an Unbiased Marine Aquarium Hobby Press

I am a writer. That is what I do for a living, and, thankfully, I often have the opportunity to merge my profession with my passion for marine aquaria and marine ecosystems. Like every other writer I know, I am also a zealous reader. I read everything I can get my hands on, both online and off, but I must admit that I have a big soft spot for print magazines. For one, it was magazines that gave me my start as a writer, but I am also continually inspired by the breadth of topics and perspectives represented when standing in front of the magazine rack in the typical newsstand….until recently that is.

A Broad Array of Opinions or a Narrow View?

In addition to writing about the marine aquarium industry, I write for several other industries that are represented to the public with a multitude of magazines. Take food, for example. There are countless magazines representing all sorts of different cuisines, diets and geographies, right? Next time you are at the newsstand though, take a look at the mastheads of many of those magazines, and a somewhat disturbing trend may reveal itself to you. Notice some of the same names and addresses? What appears to be a broad swath of opinions and experiences is, in reality, a pretty narrow message crafted in-house and inspired by, at best, a couple movers and shakers and, at worst, advertisers.

Readers' Expectations

I’m not suggesting here that all the marine aquarium magazines with which we are familiar are owned or edited by the same people—they are not. What I am suggesting, however, is that we, as readers need to expect more from these magazine in terms of presenting an unbiased view of the industry we love. We don’t want to see our magazines become as one-sided as many magazines have become in other hobbies, especially since the survival of the marine aquarium industry may depend on it.

Unbiased Supply-Side Reporting?

While the major magazines in the aquarium hobby provide us with inspiration and critical, cutting-edge husbandry information, they don’t necessarily do as good a job when it comes to helping us understand how the marine ornamental trade operates. Informed, responsible hobbyists will be essential if the marine aquarium hobby is to continue to be supported by a robust and sustainable industry, but where does the hobbyist go to be informed about supply-side industry issues?

Opinion, Editorial and News

When major issues arise such as the Banggai situation or H.R. 669, we should look to the hobby press for clear, unbiased information looking at the totality of these issues. Unfortunately, what we often get are myopic op-ed pieces posing as news. Don’t get me wrong—I love op-ed pieces, and I want to see them in the hobby magazines (shoot…I’ve written more than a couple rants myself over the years). But I also want to see the hobby magazines go out of their way to help educate all hobbyists about the issues that may well make or break the industry in the years to come.

Where is the Other Side of the Story?

There are, for example, two sides to the Banggai story, but what hobby magazine has done its due diligence to publish both sides? I have not seen one. I’m not suggesting there is not a major issue here, and personally I have called for caution as we move forward and until more data is available, but all the impassioned articles talk about the problems on the supply side of the issue without ever once going to the supply side to report the story from that angle. This is not journalism, people.

Your Job as a Reader and a Hobbyist

Magazines need readers, and as readers we can shape magazines by expecting excellence in all aspects of journalism. Why not a write a letter to the editor of your favorite marine aquarium magazine today?

Top 5 Ways You Can Improve Your Saltwater Aquarium Husbandry Today

It’s easy to get into a rut, is it not? When it comes to maintaining a tank, we can get stuck performing the same old husbandry tasks we have always performed without ever taking the time to reassess our overall approach. Approaches to husbandry in the hobby are always changing, and the dedicated hobbyist makes sure to stay abreast of the latest information regarding new husbandry techniques by spending time in the forums, reading the hobby literature, attending conventions and conferences, and speaking with other hobbyists.

I encourage you to keep up with the latest, but I also want to suggest you seriously consider the following five fundamental improvements to your husbandry practices. All five are widely touted as being important, yet they are all frequently overlooked.

Replace Your Bulbs Every Nine Months – Do you replace your bulbs in the lights over your tank every nine months? You should. Over time, the light spectrum produced by bulbs changes. This can have two negative effects on your aquarium: 1) nuisance algae blooms and 2) damage or death to photosynthetic corals. Keep a log and change your bulbs every nine months.

Top Off Your Water Daily – Do you top off your tank with freshwater daily? You should. Not topping off your tank daily causes the salinity to increase. While this increase may happen gradually and not have a noticeable effect on your animals, suddenly replacing several days or a week’s worth of evaporated water with freshwater can rapidly decrease salinity and create massive stress to corals and other invertebrates. Top off with freshwater daily.

Bolster Your Clean-Up Crew Annually (or as Needed) – Do you ever bolster your clean-up crew? You should. Sure you may have added that big clean-up crew package back when your tank was new, but two things have probably happened since then: 1) some of your clean-up crew has died as a result of predation and natural causes, and 2) your tank has changed (e.g., increased bioload). Know what each animal in your clean-up crew does (e.g. herbivore, detritavore, sand stirrer) and add more of that type of animal when needed over time.

If You Have Not Done So, Start a QT / Hospital Tank – Do you have a separate small (say 10-gallon) tank set-up as a quarantine / hospital tank? You should. Having this tank on hand is essential to good husbandry. All new fishes and corals should be quarantined before being added to an established system, and many parasites and diseases are best treated in an isolated environment. While you can plan for new arrivals, you can’t plan for when parasite outbreaks or diseases will strike. Set up a QT / Hospital tank today.

Set-Up a Refugium – Do you have a refugium plumbed to your display tank? You should. Many fishes and other animals benefit from a refugium, which cultivates foodstuff that would not survive in the display tank. Healthy pod populations and macroalgae growth can prove critical to successfully keeping many hard-to-keep species, but almost all animals will benefit from a mature refugium. In addition to direct benefit to your animals through diet, a refugium on an alternate light cycle (refugium lights on at night) can help to stabilize daily fluctuations in pH and can provide a mechanism for nutrient export.

H.R. 669 Update - Status of the Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act

Last week I wrote about H.R. 669, the proposed “Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act”, which, if passed, could end the marine aquarium hobby as we know it. The subcommittee hearing took place yesterday, and the outcome is that the bill is essentially dead at present.

“We recognize the bill is by no means perfect and that changes will be needed to address various concerns before any legislation moves forward,” said H.R. 669’s author Chairwoman Madeleine Bordallo of Guam yesterday.

Yesterday’s hearing was the Subcommittee on Insular Affairs, Oceans and Wildlife’s opportunity to meet and discuss H.R. 669, as well as an opportunity to hear testimony. The goal of the hearing was to determine whether H.R. 669 should move forward or return to the drafting table. The outcome was the latter.

Testimony from Marshall Meyers, CEO and General Counsel of the Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council (PIJAC), was critical to putting the brakes on H.R. 669. Meyers, who was representing the pet industry and pet owners, testified that passage of the bill would be disastrous to the pet industry in the United States.

The bill was set to ban the import, captive breeding and movement across state lines of most nonnative species of wildlife including tropical marine aquarium fishes, corals and other invertebrates. The purpose of the bill is to prevent the introduction of harmful, non-native invasive species, something of which the marine aquarium industry has been guilty in the past.

In recent years, for example, much concern has been expressed about the introduction of the lionfish to the Atlantic Ocean, where it has quickly established itself to the detriment of indigenous species. The introduction of the lionfish to the Atlantic was almost certainly a direct result of the marine aquarium industry.

As Meyers’ testimony explained, the pet industry does “support the development of a strategic, risk-based process to prevent the introduction of invasive species into the United States”, but the current language of the bill simply went too far.

In addition to Meyers’ testimony, pet owners—including marine aquarium hobbyists—were credited with a massive grassroots letter writing, e-mail and telephone campaign which, ultimately, helped to stop H.R. 669. Saltwaterfish.com, for example, posted the issue on its message boards and encouraged hobbyists to contact their representatives in Washington.

The Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act and the Marine Aquarium Hobby

As saltwater aquarium hobbyists, do we need to be aware of H.R. 669? The simple answer is: Absolutely.

House Resolution 669 is the so-called “Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act”. The bill is currently before Congress, and if it passes, it will dramatically change the marine aquarium industry. In fact, it would probably bring the industry as we know it to an end, as it will make it illegal to transport, breed and sell most tropical marine aquarium fishes commonly available in the hobby.

Summary of "The Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act”

The following summary of the bill was written by Congressional Research Service, a well-respected nonpartisan arm of the Library of Congress.

Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act - Requires the Secretary of the Interior to promulgate regulations establishing a process for assessing the risk of all nonnative wildlife species proposed for importation into the United States, other than those included in a list of approved species issued under this Act. Sets forth factors that must be considered, including the identity of the organism to the species level, the native range of the species, whether the species has caused harm to the economy, the environment, or other animal species or human health in similar ecosystems, and the likelihood of establishment or spread of the species in the United States.

Provides procedures for issuance and expansion of a list of nonnative wildlife species approved for importation and a list of nonnative wildlife species that are prohibited.

Establishes prohibitions on: (1) importation or transportation between states of nonnative species that are not included in the list of approved species; (2) permit violations; and (3) possession, purchase, sale, barter, release, or breeding of such species.

Exempts from such prohibitions actions by law enforcement personnel to enforce this Act or by federal or state officials to prevent the introduction or establishment of nonnative wildlife species. Declares that nothing in this act restricts the importation or transportation between states of such species by a federal agency for its own use if the species remains in its possession. Authorizes the Secretary to issue permits authorizing otherwise prohibited importation for scientific research, for medical, accredited zoological or aquarium display purposes, or for educational purposes that are specifically reviewed, approved, and verified by the Secretary if the Secretary finds that there has been a proper showing by the permittee of responsibility for the specimen and continued protection of the public interest and health.

Allows the imposition of fees on persons who submit a proposal to include a species in either of the lists to recover the costs of assessing risks of nonnative wildlife species. Establishes a Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Fund into which such fees and fines for violations will be deposited.

Redesignates the Invasive Species Council established by Executive Order 13112 as the National Invasive Species Council.

H.R. 669 Sponsors

H.R. 669 is sponsored by Del. Madeleine Bordallo [D-GU] and was referred to the Subcommittee on Insular Affairs, Oceans and Wildlife on February 4, 2009. Cosponsors of the bill include:

• Rep. Grace Napolitano [D-CA]

• Del. Eni Faleomavaega [D-AS]

• Rep. Neil Abercrombie [D-HI]

• Rep. James McGovern [D-MA]

• Rep. Lynn Woolsey [D-CA]

• Rep. Raul Grijalva [D-AZ]

• Rep. Barbara Lee [D-CA]

• Rep. Barney Frank [D-MA]

• Rep. Alcee Hastings [D-FL]

• Rep. Ronald Kind [D-WI]

• Rep. Dale Kildee [D-MI]

• Rep. Ron Klein [D-FL]

• Rep. George Miller [D-CA]

What Does Saltwaterfish.com Think of H.R. 669

“We support responsible pet ownership and encourage everyone to have a thorough understanding of what is involved to care for the pets we own,” says Scott Hughes, owner of Saltwaterfish.com. “The current legislation is too broad and would severely limit the animals that hobbyists can keep. It would negatively impact the grassroots efforts to propagate marine animals via captive breeding efforts and will cause millions of hobbyists and pet shop owners to lose a passion and a vocation.”

What Can Tropical Marine Aquarists Do about H.R. 669?

What can you do? Contact your representative and express your opinion before the 23rd of April 2009. Alternatively, go to NoHR699.com and click on “Do Something Now!” Most importantly, educate yourself about the bill and follow its progress at a site such as GovTrack.us.

 

Using Reef Herbivores to Control Algae in the Saltwater Aquarium

I saw Eric Borneman give an interesting talk on reef herbivores last week at MAX, and it just so happens I have a feature article on the same topic in the current issue of Tropical Reef Hobbyist Magaine (p. 94 of the May issue). Understanding reef herbivory is central, in my opinion, to being a successful reef hobbyist. It also sets the reader up for being on the front line of one of the more important reef conservation fronts of our time.

Cows and Fertilizer

Eric’s talk was called “Cows and Fertilizer: a Novel Way to Understand the Control of Algae in Reef Aquariums.” It made the analogy between terrestrial herbivory, which most people readily understand, and reef herbivory, which, for many, remains somewhat of a mystery. Basically, when you think of algae on a reef—either a natural reef or one in an aquarium—you can think about it as being caused primarily by excessive nutrients  or primarily by lack of appropriate herbivores. Aquarists tend to think in terms of the former when they have an algae control issue, but both Eric’s talk and my article in TFH encourage the aquarist to think more about the latter.

Herbivores in the Saltwater Aquarium

Understanding what herbivores eat what on the reef can have a dramatic impact on the control of algae in a marine aquarium. Understanding that each herbivore occupies a critical function on the reef in terms of the algae it targets and where it targets that algae will help the aquarist maintain a “clean reef” without needing to rely heavily on overskimming and other mechanical and chemical nutrient export. Mind you, I‘m not suggesting not to use a protein skimmer or run nutrient absorbing media in your aquarium, but I am suggesting that you give some real thought to exactly how you use your livestock to assist in the fight against unsightly nuisance algae.

Rabbitfish (not Parrotfish!) for Control of Nuisance Algae

In my article in TFH, I look primarily at algae grazing fishes that have been shown to be excellent herbivores on the reef (e.g., the rabbitfishes), but I also point out that it is a combination of algae-grazing mollusks and herbivorous fishes that generally proves most effective. The take-home point is that herbivory is at least as important as nutrient control on natural reefs AND in your aquarium. Understanding the ecological niches of fish, both on the reef and in the aquarium, can help elucidate why things like algae outbreaks happen, and how to fix them when they go wrong, while keeping in mind that some very important reef herbivores are poorly suited to most marine aquarium sitautions (e.g., parrotfishes). 

Applying Data about Algae-Dominated Reefs to the Marine Aquarium

As is often my approach when dealing with my own aquarium, my TFH article looks to what goes on in the wild as observed by marine researchers, and tries to apply that knowledge to successfully maintaining a marine aquarium. As Eric’s talk pointed out, however, the marine aquarium is VERY different from the actual reef in terms of how the entire system functions. Nonetheless, keeping the broad concepts in mind regarding both herbivory and nutrients can improve one’s husbandry dramatically. Using both nutrient control and herbivorous fishes and invertebrates can help the aquarist finally win the war against nuisance marine algae, while at the same time developing a better understanding of why natural reefs are increasingly becoming algae-dominated and why this is something about which we all should be concerned.

Feeding Your Omnivorous Saltwater Aquarium Fishes

All marine aquarium fishes are omnivorous. Why do I say this? I mean aren’t there carnivores and aren’t there herbivores? Well sure, but from a husbandry standpoint, it is really best in my experience to think of all your fishes as omnivors and to feed a varied diet for optimal health and well-being. 

A big part of good husbandry has to do with feeding, about which I have written here before. One of the biggest mistakes aquarists make in terms of husbandry (again, in my opinion) is not feeding enough, but perhaps the second biggest mistake is not feeding a varied diet.

A varied diet for my own saltwater aquarium fishes includes a combination of fresh and commercially-prepared food of marine origin.

Flake and Pellet Foods

Flakes and pellets are inexpensive, nutritionally appropriate foods IF they are:

• Manufactured by a reputable company (you know the big names)

• Have not been re-packaged

• Are not more than a couple weeks (maybe a month or two at most) old

Flake and pellet foods are accepted by many fishes, and they are probably the least dangerous in terms of adding to the overall nutrient load of your aquarium. You can purchase them in formulations appropriate for different fishes, although I like to mix a pinch of several different formulations on any given day.

In short, flake and pellet food is great. It’s pretty inexpensive, nutritionally appropriate and easy to feed.

Frozen Foods

Frozen foods should be part of any aquarist’s basic feeding routine in my opinion. If you’re going to buy from a retailer (instead of making your own—we’ll discuss making your own in a later post), go with the well-respected brands kept in the freezer case. A wide array of frozen foods are available from the little gel packs to the frozen cubes to sheets of squid or other meaty marine flesh.

These frozen foods are relatively inexpensive and pretty easy to feed. I like to first rinse frozen food and then thaw it in system water. I then use a turkey baster to target feed thawed, frozen food to my different animals (including invertebrates!).

The downside to frozen foods is that they can, when overused, cause nutrient levels to become elevated as uneaten food decomposes in the tank. Don’t overfeed frozen food!

Fresh Raw Marine Flesh

Your fishes will often appreciate a shrimp, mussel, oyster, or some other piece of fresh raw table seafood. In particular, I like to offer clams, oysters and mussels in the shell to my fishes. I simply open the shell or crack it and then drop it in the tank allowing the fish to sort out how to get at the meat. This is an activity that appears to “entertain” most of my fishes for the better part of an hour, and I usually try to do it about once a week.

Keep in mind that adding a piece of raw table seafood to your tank is, in many ways, like adding a dead animal, and it can have the same effects if uneaten portions are allowed to decompose there. If there are left-overs, it is worth taking the time to remove them from the tank.

Live Food

In my opinion, avoid feeding “feeder fishes” unless absolutely necessary. Most saltwater aquarium fishes kept by the majority of hobbyists can and should be weaned onto a captive diet. ‘Nuff said.

Greens

When it comes to greens, I only feed greens of marine origin (no lettuce for my fishes!). While I think some of the commercially-prepared herbivorous foods are pretty good (and as mentioned above, I mix these in when I feed), nothing is better than growing your own macroalgae in a refugium for the purpose of feeding. A close second, however, is Nori and other marine algae available in the Asian food section of you local market. Avoid anything that has been processed beyond simple drying.

Conclusion

To return to where I began, the vast majority of marine fishes are, truly, omnivores, so mix it up to be sure that all your animals get a varied and nutritious diet. Do your homework, know your fishes natural diet and be sure to use feeding time as an opportunity to observe your fishes’ overall health and well-being.

The Importance of Breeding Fish

My friend Matt Pedersen started MOFIB, which, for those of you who don’t know, is the Marine Ornamental Fish and Invert Breeders. I’m sure you’ve seen their advertisements recently in print and in the forums, and you may wonder what the big deal is. I mean is MOFIB just a bunch of fish geeks developing boutique clownfishes in their basements for their own enjoyment and maybe some gas money?

Nope…and here’s why. Here is why breeding saltwater fish is important to a robust and sustainable marine aquarium hobby.

Marine Aquarium Hobbyist Breeders

As MOFIB points out, “the vast majority of marine fish breeders are truly hobbyists, some as small as two tanks and a pair of fish.” This is a really good thing for the hobby at large. Why? Because profitability is usually not a concern for the hobbyist breeder, one doesn’t hear the same sort of rhetoric usually heard from the commercial operations.

Sustainability of the Hobby and Breeding

For example, there are a lot of questions and debate surrounding the Banggai Cardinalfish right now, and the only thing that seems certain is that, until we know more about the situation on the ground in Banggai, purchasing captive bred Banggai cardinalfish is probably what is best for the species and the hobby. If this is the case, and if everyone from Eric Borneman to the editors of Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine are calling for it, why are there very few captive-bred Banggai Cardinalfish available to hobbyists?

The short answer is that, for a variety of reasons, commercially breeding Banggai cardinalfish is not at present considered profitable by most of the larger commercial breeding operations. Enter the hobbyist breeder who, through his or her efforts, can provide captive bred Banggai Cardianfish to friends and other hobbyists through local aquarium clubs and via the Internet. I even know of one breeder who is now providing captive-bred cardinalfishes to relatively large-scale retail outfits.

Captive Bred Fish for New Hobbyists

While there is little doubt that hobbyist breeders can have a profoundly important influence on the sustainability of the industry, breeding marine fish is more than just a mitigation tool for threatened species. Captive bred fishes are, in fact, hardier fishes better suited for many beginning hobbyists. Captive bred fishes do not have to be weaned onto a captive diet, and the adjustment to the hobbyist’s aquarium is usually much easier, as the fish was born and reared in an aquarium. A robust hobby with many new hobbyists will benefit from a large number of captive bred species.

Breeding Saltwater Fish Improves One's Own Husbandry Skills

In addition providing an alternative to wild collection for certain threatened species and giving new hobbyists hardy fishes on which to gain initial success in the hobby, an interest in captive breeding dramatically improves the hobbyist’s husbandry skills. While volumes could be written on this point, suffice it to say that the hobbyist intent of successfully breeding his or her fishes will quickly develop skills that will dramatically improve husbandry.

The Future of the Hobby

Please don’t get me wrong. I am not advocating (as some have) that the marine aquarium hobby of the future will be (or, for that matter, should be) based entirely on captive bred animals. For the hobbyist with the right experience, knowledge and system, a large number of wild-caught fishes will be appropriate, especially when it comes to those that have stable wild populations and for which no reasonable captive breeding protocol exists.

And, after all, those species for which captive breeding is currently not possible, they will be the frontier for the next generation of marine ornamental fish breeders!

Powder Blue Tangs and the Pros and Cons of Being a Popular Tropical Marine Aquarium Fish

When you buy a powder blue tang—one of the hobby’s most beautiful fishes—do so knowing that you are fully prepared to provide for the health of this species. This blog entry will hopefully help those of you who are ready for a powder blue tang to have success with this amazing animal.

Popularity and Ethics

I’ve been having a number of conversations lately with people who are on the cutting edge of the hobby in terms of breeding tropical marine aquarium fishes. Our discussions have been, at times, technical in nature, and I marvel at what these people have been able to accomplish. There is, however, another side of the conversation to which we consistently return: ethics. Anyone on the business side of the marine aquarium trade must address ethical considerations every single day, and perhaps nowhere is it more complex then when discussing the risks associated with making a more-difficult-to keep species popular.

The Powder Blue Tang

Clearly the issue goes well beyond captive breeding. Today’s special on Saltwaterfish.com is, for example, the powder blue tangs (Acanthurus leucosternon), one of the most commonly offered and popular fishes in the trade. It also is a fish that continually poses a great challenge for beginning aquarists who don’t have the right information at their disposal.

The reality is that too many powder blue tangs die needlessly because of their popularity and the fact that people buy them based mostly on that popularity instead of sound knowledge about what it takes to keep them successfully. Let’s see if we can change some of that today with this blog entry that looks at what you need to know to have success with this animal.

Acquire a Healthy Specimen

To begin with, you must acquire a healthy specimen. If you buy from an online retailer like Saltwaterfish.com, they take care of that part for you. In reality, initially unhealthy animals are a leading of mortality in hobbyists’ tanks. The trained staff at Saltwaterfish.com only ships the healthiest animals because it is the right thing to do and their reputation depends on it.

Quarantine

All serious marine aquarium hobbyists should have a quarantine/hospital tank on hand, and this is particularly true with many tang species. Regardless of where you acquire your specimen, being fully-prepared to keep a powder blue tang means being able to isolate the fish in a quarantine tank for two weeks before introduction to your display tank. If you don’t have a quarantine tank, it is easy to set one up quickly and relatively inexpensively. Do it now, whether you plan to purchase a powder blue tang or not.

Tank Size for a Powder Blue Tang

While a juvenile powder blue tang may do fine in smaller quarters, a hobbyist considering one must know that he or she is prepared to house the adult fish. How big of a tank does an adult powder blue tang need? Plan on at least 100 gallons with plenty of swimming room, as these fishes may grow to 12 inches and they like to move as they continually graze.

Power Grazers

Powder blue tangs give new meaning to the term “grazer,” and, as such, their tank should have plenty of live rock on which to graze. To have success with this fish, you really should possess a mature aquarium of at least six months. Finally, the aquarium should not be “too tidy,” and some algae growth should be evident on the rocks.

Filtration and Water Quality

To keep a healthy powder blue tang healthy, you need a system with robust filtration and excellent water quality. Stability is critical! These fish do not tolerate poor water quality or wildly fluctuating levels. Nutrients should be kept at a minimum and pH should be consistently high (8.1 or 8.2). Powder blues also do best in a tank that is kept on the warmer side (around 80-degrees F) and does not fluctuate more than a couple degrees in any 24-hour cycle.

Feeding a Powder Blue Tang

It is essential to make sure a powder blue tang has a nutritious and varied diet available to it, especially in the first few days and weeks after shipping. In addition to algae that should be present on the live rock in the tang’s aquarium, be sure to have a wide variety of other high quality marine aquarium foods when your new fish arrives. In addition to herbivorous foods (Nori from the Asian food section of the market is a winner!), meaty foods such as enriched frozen mysis shrimp should be offered as part of a varied diet. In a reef tank, keeping a powder blue tang well fed will also assist in keeping the tang away from your smaller polyped stony corals.

Compatibility Issues and the Powder Blue Tang

Powder blue tangs can be territorial, and they therefore should be the last fish added to most marine aquarium set-ups. They tend not to do well with members of their own species, so keeping one per tank unless the system is huge is the rule of thumb. It is a good idea to consider having the powder blue as the only tang in the system, as other tangs (especially those of similar shape, color and size) may elicit aggression.

Conclusion

The powder blue tang is a beautiful fish—some would say the most beautiful fish in the hobby—and while it may be a listed as a “difficult-to-keep species,” this does not mean that the dedicated hobbyist cannot have success with one. You should now have the critical information regarding system-specifications and husbandry to be set-up for success with this animal.

I know many hobbyists who keep this fish as the centerpiece of their saltwater tanks and have never had any problems at all with the species. The common denominator amongst those aquarists is that they are the type of people who ALWAYS do their research first and who NEVER acquire an animal they are not fully prepared to care for. If, after reading this blog entry, you feel like you are ready, then by all means get a powder blue tang, and, please, let me know how it goes!

Feed Your Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes!

Today I’d like to talk a little about a favorite topic of marine aquarists—feeding. As marine aquarists, our hobby requires more consistent care than some other hobbies. If we stop looking after our aquatic charges—even for a relatively short time—their health may well suffer. Toward that end, and despite what you may have heard previously, feeding should be a daily endeavor.

Most Saltwater Tanks Should be Fed Several Times a Day

I’m pretty sick of hearing people recommend that saltwater aquarists underfeed their tanks. I even heard a speaker at a trade show tell a large audience to feed “maybe twice a week—that’s all they really need.” While it is certainly true that some animals commonly kept do not need to be fed daily, it is also true that the vast majority of community FOWLR and reef tanks should be fed at least twice a day.

If it’s true that most tanks should be fed twice a day, why is it that so many people harp on not overfeeding instead of not underfeeding? The answer is simple: Filtration. And, more specifically, insufficient filtration. When you add food to your aquarium, that food, in one form or another, is going to stay in the aquarium until it is filtered out. It follows that if you feed more, you are going to increase the nutrients in your tank, which may lead to decreasing water quality and algae blooms—the bane of many aquarists’ existence.

Filter More Instead of Feeding Less

The solution to excessive nutrients, however, is not to feed less. Instead, the responsible aquarist truly concerned with appropriately caring for his or her animals will ramp us the system’s filtration to be able to handle the nutrients associated with suitable feeding. It’s simple—increasing feeding and increasing filtration is, more often than not, a good thing in the tropical marine aquarium.

Long Term Effects on Health and Behavior

Why is this? I mean you may know someone with a beautiful tank who claims he or she feeds every third day or even less. While it is possible for many marine fishes to go for periods of time without proper nutrition, the long term effect is cumulative and will result in stress and health issues.

On the reef, there is a near constant supply of food in the water column and fishes are nearly always feeding. In our closed systems, especially ones that are less than a year old, this is clearly not the case. While a certain amount of foraging occurs in the tank, the fishes are very dependent on when you—the aquarist—feeds the tank. Feeding infrequently is not natural, and it will affect everything from the health to the behavior of your animals.

An Approriate Feeding Schedule

In a future blog entry, we can talk a little more about what to feed, but, as a general rule of thumb, try to feed a varied diet appropriate to the animals you keep 3-5 times per day. Each feeding can be relatively small (the old trick of feeding as much as is consumed in 5 minutes is an okay metric if you are feeding 3 or more times per day). Be sure to target feed any animals that are not aggressive feeders (e.g., jawfishes) at least twice a day, and be sure to use high quality foods (or even fresh table seafood) that will not unnecessarily increase the nutrient levels in your system.

Feeding more frequently is in the best interest of your animals in terms of their health and behavior—do it! And if you need to increase your filtration capacity, do that too.

Success with a Mixed Hard and Soft Coral Aquarium

I am an addict. I know. I admit it. That’s why I recently started not one, but two new saltwater tanks.

Admittedly, having multiple tropical saltwater aquaria gives me the ability to create different biotopes and avoid some common compatibility issues, but what if you only have one tank and you want to keep species that may potentially be harmful to one another? In most cases, best practices says don’t do it unless you are very experienced, have a massive system or are prepared to offer round-the-clock husbandry during the introduction and acclimation period. Mixing hard and soft corals may well be the best example of an exception to the rule, and that’s what I want to talk about today.

Let’s start out by discussing the compatibility issue itself. Imagine this relatively common scenario: A new saltwater hobbyist starts his or her first tank. He or she decides to go reef and are advised to begin with so-called “starter corals” such as leather or soft corals. After half a year of success with the soft corals, the aquarist starts thinking he or she might be ready to have a go at hard corals, but then someone tells them you can’t mix hard and soft corals in marine aquarium. Is this true?

Yes and no. First the facts:

• Most soft corals are easier to keep than hard corals.

• Many of the most popular soft corals are also some of the most toxic animals commonly kept in the hobby.

• Some of the more prized hard corals (especially those referred to as SPS corals) are particularly susceptible to the chemical warfare of which many soft corals are capable.

In other words, adding a hard coral to a soft coral-dominated tank can mean the demise of the hard coral as the soft corals in the tank—even if not directly proximal to the hard coral—release their toxins and mucous webs in an effort to repel the invader.

Whoa! That really happens? Yep.

While many soft corals are great beginner corals because they tolerate varied conditions, are less expensive and happen to be quite beautiful, they also are fully capable of allelopathy (chemical warfare) that can wipe out hard corals. Some soft corals can even sense a competing hard coral, even if it is several feet away, and, in the closed system of an aquarium, the resulting allelopathy can be fatal to the new addition.

But wait! I started this entry by saying that mixing hard and soft corals may well be the best example of an exception to the rule of avoiding known compatibility issues as a matter of course. It’s true. By being smart, showing restraint and slightly altering his or her husbandry and maintenance protocols, even the beginning aquarist can have success with a mixed tank. Here’s how:

• Research ever species thoroughly before purchase, and go slow when starting out.

• To begin, make sure each soft coral specimen has up to eight inches of buffer around it.

• Run robust filtration so that toxins are quickly diluted and then removed from the system.

• Run a reverse flow substrate reactor with carbon as a normal part of chemical filtration.

• Observe! Observe! Observe! And then adapt if necessary.

By following these simple points, even the beginning tropical saltwater aquarist can have success with a mixed tank containing both hard and soft corals.

Maybe I should start another tank and make it a mixed tank!

Hobbyists Helping the Saltwater Aquarium Hobby and Themselves

Marine aquarium hobbyists have a great track record when it comes to helping themselves, and, through the marine aquarium online forums, they are great at helping other hobbyists and the hobby in general. In particular, marine aquarists are good at finding information about how to set-up and keep a thriving saltwater aquarium because, let’s face it, there really are no instruction manuals in this hobby. Sure, there are some fantastic books that can really help, but when it comes to the definitive answer of how to plumb a UV sterilizer (in-line with your return or on a closed loop off your sump?) or where to place returns and powerheads to create the perfect flow pattern, the hobbyist often has to find this information on his or her own.

The Internet as a Resource for Saltwater Hobbyists

The Internet has proven a phenomenal resource for today’s marine aquarist. While I don’t want to downplay the role of local marine aquarium societies, you can’t always have one in your living room when you are deciding which protein skimmer to get. You can however, have the Internet and access to nearly limitless information at your fingertips at any time of the day or night. While there are a number of good sites that are driven by content written by “professionals” (WetWebMedia comes to mind), there are also countless forums where the content is generated by hobbyists for hobbyists. That is what I want to talk about today.

Marine aquarium forums or bulletin boards, like the one at Saltwtarefish.com, are remarkable resources filled with information based on actual experience. While the people answering the questions on the boards may not be published authors, they are often people with practical, real-world experience and a self-motivated desire to share that experience specific to the questions you ask. As a writer, I have often found “experts” for various articles on which I was working by posting a thread in a specific category of a bulletin board and seeing who responds.

The Nuts and Bolts of Online Forums

Let’s back up for a minute and cover the basics of online forums for the uninitiated. A marine aquarium forum is an online discussion site or bulletin board (so-called because it is a vestige of the old dial-up bulletin board technology) where registered users are given access to a web application specifically built for the purpose of managing user content. That’s a mouthful! Participation in most forums (or “boards” as they are frequently called) requires registering where the user (you) will be asked to agree to the terms of service and verify your e-mail address. The purpose of this is to avoid abuse of the forum by spammers and others who are not truly interested in the topic of the forum.

Once registered, a user may (and commonly does) choose to maintain anonymity with fellow users by using a nickname or username and hiding his or her actual identity (often these usernames indicate something about the user on saltwater aquarium boards such as their favorite fish). While a user is not required to contribute user-generated content, most users will eventually posts in a thread. Posting is simply the process of posting a message in a self-contained box that includes the user’s username, date or post and other genera information about the user (perhaps even a picture or avatar). Generally the user has control over how much or how little personal information accompanies a post.

Posting in Threads and Forums

The user’s post is posted to a thread, which is a group of posts surrounding a topic that was started by one user usually as a question, comment or observation. Some threads only have two or three posts posted within a 24-hour period, while other threads may have thousands of posts over a period of years. The posts in a thread are generally moderated by a moderator or “mod” who insures that the terms of service are adhered to and that the forum remains friendly or “flame free.” The moderator or the site administrator may, in extreme cases, choose to delete a post or even an entire thread. The moderator or administrator may also choose to make a thread “sticky” so that it always appears at the top of the category of threads (this is done when a thread is perceived to be particularly useful to users).

While posts are posted to threads, threads are posted to category headings known as forums, and it is usually from these forums that the user begins their search on a board. For example, if you go to the Saltwaterfish.com board, you will find that the first forum is titled “Welcome to the Hobby”, and under that forum heading, there are three subtopics:

• New Hobbyists

• Tips and Techniques

• Archives & FAQ

If you click on “New Hobbyists”, you will see a series of “sticky” threads at the top. Take a look at the thread titled “101 Tips to Beginning and Maintaining a Saltwater Aquarium.” This is a sticky thread with, at the time of this writing, 130 replies (these are all individual posts) and 21,162 views (the number of times the thread has been viewed). If you click on the thread, you will see that it was started by someone with the username Lion_crazz (we can assume based on the username and avatar that this aquarists likes lionfishes) on 6 January 2008 at 6:58 pm. We can also see that Lion_crazz has posted over 13,000 posts since June 2004. Talk about experience, eh?

While the new hobbyists will read through this thread (and the others in this forum) with interest, the more experienced hobbyist may choose to head to a more specialized forum such as the SPS Corals subforum in the Corals Forum or the Captive Breeding subfolder in the Aquaculture and Breeding Forum. In reality, there is a forum for just about every topic one could imagine, and if there isn’t one, than the user need only start it.

User Beware

Now, while I am a big fan of the boards when it comes to finding, sharing and debating information, there are a few potential downsides of which the new user should be aware. For example, just because someone has posted 100,000 posts does not necessarily make them an expert. Any information you come across on a forum should be viewed as an opinion. Just like in “real life” there are those users who you will come to trust more than others, but just because you read something in a forum doesn’t mean you should take it as Gospel. It is a good idea to follow a thread carefully from beginning to end and then post observations and questions before making any decision informed by what you read.

There are tons of tools that make using the boards easier and more fun, but I’m going to leave it here for now while you go spend some time exploring on your own.

Happy reading and happy reefing!

Mandarinfishes--Not Just for Expert Aquarists Anymore

Mandarinfishes are amazing animals that are not quite as difficult to keep as was once thought. These “beautiful name” fishes are from the family Callionymidae (from the Greek “kallis” or “beautiful” and “onyma” or “name”), although you may know them simply as dragonets. Mandarinfish from the genus Synchiropus (especially green mandarins and spotted mandarins) are pretty common in the marine aquarium hobby, and most hobbyists cannot long resist their beautiful coloration and charming movement. The good news is that, with the proper husbandry, these fishes needn’t be considered “expert only” fishes.

The Difficulty in Keeping Mandarins

Originating in the Indo-West Pacific, these fishes feed primarily on tiny benthic invertebrates, and it is this feeding behavior that has been largely responsible for a higher than average mortality rate in the marine aquarium. In short, the wasting away of a stressed mandarinfish in an aquarium has been far too frequent an occurrence for many marine aquarists to heartily recommend mandarinfishes to anyone but the expert aquarist with the proper system (e.g. established system with loads of live rock and an attached, mature refugium).

Expert only?

No longer says Matthew Wittenrich in this month’s issue of CORAL Magazine. “Today, dedicated hobbyists are teaching their mandarins to accept frozen and even pelleted food,” he writes, “and, with a bit of patience, mandarins are no longer a ‘for experts only fish.’ “

Mandarinfish for Everyone

I had the opportunity to interview Matthew about mandarins for an article a few months ago (Matthew and I blog together over at Microcosm Aquarium Explorer), and I must say that if you are at all interested in keeping these beautiful fishes, there has never been a better time to give it a go.

What Matthew has learned about the husbandry of these animals is truly remarkable, and he has (along with the worthy contributions of folks like Julian Sprung and Matt Pedersen of MOFIB) put these beautiful creatures within reach of any saltwater aquarist committed to taking the time to properly wean them onto a captive diet. Talking to Matthew reminds me that we don’t know quite as much as we think we know about this hobby and that some of our “hard and fast rules” are really just thinly-veiled ignorance.

Weaning a Mandarinfish onto a Captive Diet

Okay, let’s talk specifics. While only adding mandarinfishes to an established aquarium with an attached refugium and a ready supply of Reefpods is still good advice, it is highly recommended that all aquarists keeping mandarins should take the time to wean their fish onto a captive diet before setting them loose in the main display tank. How do you wean a mandarinfish onto a captive diet? It’s actually remarkably simple. In your QT tank (or in a breeder basket or plastic strainer in the main tank), offer your new mandarinfish live brine shrimp. Then start adding frozen mysis to the live shrimp, and, over a period of days, gradually decrease the amount of live shrimp and increase the frozen shrimp, until the mandarins are feeding exclusively on the prepared food. Yes, it’s really that simple! Supplementing the mandarinfish’s diet with live food (like Reefpods) is still a good idea.

Once you have a pair of mandarins eating a captive diet, it’s time to really set your sites on captive breeding (check out Matthew’s article “Breeding Mandarins” in the January 2009 issue of CORAL Magazine), but I'll leave that for a later entry.

Acclimating Tropical Saltwater Fish

It’s winter, kids, and temperatures have been dipping into the colder-than-usual-range for many of us across the country. How does this affect your potential online purchase of marine aquarium livestock? It actually shouldn’t affect it all that much, IF you are willing to be patient and follow acclimatization procedures to the letter.

If you have purchased livestock from Saltwaterfish.com before, you know they go to great lengths to maintain the stability of the water in which your animals are shipped during the entire shipping time. In the winter, this means you will find heat packs inside the boxes to keep the temperature up, but when it’s super cold, and winter weather delays the FedEx truck, the temperatures in the bags can still get pretty low for a tropical animal. Fortunately, most animals are incredibly resilient to these temperature changes if you take the time to acclimate them properly.

Keep in mind that the temperature in the bags dropped slowly over the course of being shipping, and so it is absolutely essential to bring the temperature back up slowly. While you must still be concerned with acclimating the animal to the pH and salinity of your tank, it is temperature that is often the most critical parameter in the winter. Not temperature acclimating the animal slowly enough will lead to stress and even death. Acclimating the animal slowly (even if it appears lifeless on arrival) more often than not will “revive” the animal to a healthy state.

So how do you do this? A three hour (or longer) drip acclimation is the key. Check out the Acclimation Flash Presentation on the Saltwaterfish.com homepage for the details on how to effectively drip acclimate your new livestock. As Scott, owner of Saltwaterfish.com says, “Three hours is not a lot of time to insure the health of your animals.”

Once the animal has been acclimated, the acclimatization period is still not quite over. To allow the animal to truly recover from shipping, keep the lights off in the tank (and even in the room) for the first 24 hours and resist the urge to constantly be peering in the tank “checking on” your new arrival. Keep in mind we always recommend using a quarantine tank for all new arrivals.

As I’ve said before (and I’m sure I’ll say again), patience is the key to success in this hobby, and it is particularly applicable to acclimating new arrivals during the winter when shipping times may unexpectedly be longer than normal. Remember, even if the animal appears lifeless upon arrival, follow the full drip acclimation procedure detailed in the flash presentation and, more often than not, you will be amazed at how well these incredible animals recover.

Keeping a Tropical Marine Aquarium Log

One of the least expensive and most valuable things the saltwater aquarist can do for the health of his or her system (or systems) is to keep a tank log. A tank log is simply a record of your tank parameters, observations and any significant changes. The reason a tank log is so valuable is, as I have blogged about before, stability is absolutely critical to success in this hobby. While it’s important for some species to have absolutely flawless water quality, overall, stability is more important to more species over the lifetime of your aquarium.

What Parameters Should Be Recorded?

During the cycling phase of a new saltwater aquarium, you will want to monitor ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, but once the tank is up and running, there are other parameters to record that will give you a good baseline on the stability of the system.

In my opinion, pH is one of the best parameters to record regularly, because a change in pH is often indicative of something else going on. If you record pH regularly (I record it hourly with a pH probe, but once a day or even every few days may suffice), you will be able to see trends over time that will give you invaluable insight into the stability (or lack thereof) of your system. When you see a change in trends, identify the cause of the change and correct it. Any sudden changes (with the exception of the expected daily pH spike associated with the diurnal light cycle) should be cause for a full battery of tests.

In addition to pH, temperature is an essential parameter to monitor regularly (again, I log it hourly using a temperature probe). Many species are tolerant of temperature fluctuations, but any daily temperature fluctuation of more than a couple degrees is stressful and can be the catalyst for disease or infestation. Also, several other parameters have a close relationship with temperature, so, for example, knowing at what temperature you recorded your specific gravity at 1.025 will be important when considering recorded changes to specific gravity over time.

Specific gravity is another parameter I like to monitor regularly because, even if you don’t use a conductivity probe, it’s so quick to check as part of your daily maintenance using a refractometer. Obviously, specific gravity (a.k.a. “saltiness”) is affected by evaporation, top-off and water changes, so monitoring your specific gravity over time will give you some insight into the effectiveness of your husbandry insofar as it is related to water changes. Some species (especially many inverts) are very sensitive to specific gravity, and fluctuations will cause stress and even death.

Reef aquarists will want to test for a variety of other parameters, but I will leave that to a later blog entry. The above parameters—pH, temperature and specific gravity—are the parameters for which I test and log hourly using electronic probes. If you are not going to use probes, then plan to test these parameters once a day AT THE SAME TIME EACH DAY. By reviewing trends over time, you will be able to keep an eye on how stable your aquarium really is. If one or more of these parameters begins to change over time, then your job will be two-fold:

1. Find the cause of the change

2. Correct if necessary

Observation versus Testing

Personally, I don’t test daily for nitrates or phosphates because I feel as if daily observation effectively clues me in to changes in either of these parameters. For example, If I begin to get an algae bloom, I have a pretty good hunch that my phosphates are becoming elevated, which I then confirm with a test kit. While there is no harm to testing for these parameters daily, I prefer to spend the time observing my fishes and leave the phosphate testing to once a month.

Observation, in many ways, is more important, in my opinion, than dogmatic testing. You should observe your tank and animals with a critical eye at least once a day and record notes about what you see. There truly is no better way to become a better aquarist than to observe your system and log your observations. Going back over your log weekly or monthly will reveal trends and subtle changes that may otherwise have gone unnoticed. These changes then become the basis for your personal research online, at your local marine aquarium society or in hobby literature, and you then become a better aquarist.

In conclusion, aim for stability by keeping a tank log. Strive to understand the cause and effect relationships surrounding any changes in your system, and you will, over time, become a more knowledgeable and experienced aquarist. 

Captive-Bred Marine Aquarium Fishes--The Right Choice?

It seems it is really hard to sell a captive-bred animal in today’s marine aquarium industry, and I’m not entirely sure what that is all about.

Sure, a tank-raised fish is usually more expensive, but it is also generally a hardier animal. In addition to captive-bred fishes being better suited for aquarium life than wild-caught fishes, over the past few months there’s been a slew of press against purchasing certain wild-caught animals like the Banggai cardinalfish. In the case of the Banggai cardinalfish, concerns over stable wild populations have led the marine aquarium hobby press to call for a self-imposed ban on wild-caught specimens of this spectacular fish. And yet a sea change has not occurred, and hobbyists are still buying wild-caught fishes. Why is this?

In the case of the Banggai cardinalfish, it has everything to do with the fact that despite the press’ full-court press, nobody—and I mean NOBODY—is supplying tank-raised Banggai cardinalfish on a commercial level to the industry at present. I conducted my very own, unscientific survey a couple weeks ago by travelling to no less than seven local fish stores in the Los Angeles area. While many of these stores had Banggai cardinalfishes, nobody had tank-raised ones or even knew where they could get them. When I asked whether or not hobbyists had been requesting captive bred Banggais, the response was a categorical “no.”

I understand it’s hard for the hobbyist to buy something that is not available, but, by the same token, without the demand, where is the incentive for people to start commercially breeding Banggai cardinalfishes? Or to place the responsibility more firmly with the hobbyist, why are responsible aquarists not demanding captive-bred fish? When faced with the decision between buying a tank-raised fish and a wild-caught fish, why are aquarists not choosing the tank-raised animal more? Either aquarists 1) don’t buy the line that tank-raised fishes are, more often than not, a more suitable choice for the aquarium, 2) don’t believe that wild populations of some fishes are in a dangerous state of decline, or 3) aren’t willing to pay more money for a tank-raised fish.

While I hate to say this, I do believe it comes down to lack of education and money. Why do I say this? Because I don’t want to say that the marine aquarist doesn’t care. I believe that most marine aquarists are good people who have a profound appreciation for the ocean and the animals that live in it. Most aquarists I know want to do the right thing, even if that means paying more for a captive-bred animal. This is why I will be dedicating several blog posts here at SaltwaterSense to the topic of captive-bred marine fishes throughout 2009.

I will not advocate (as some recently have) that the industry should, in the future, depend entirely on captive-bred species. This is neither realistic, nor is it in the best interest of impoverished island nations where the marine aquarium industry provides a valuable source of income to local communities. I do believe we need to ramp-up commercial breeding programs for many popular marine aquarium fishes like dwarf angelfishes, certain tangs and, of course, Banggai cardinafishes, but I also believe we need to educate hobbyists on where upwards of 95% of marine aquarium fishes are collected. We need to begin initiatives to help local fishermen develop sustainable fisheries that conserve the ecosystem and supply a robust and sustainable marine aquarium industry. And of course we need to educate the hobbyist about why, in some cases, demanding and buying the more expensive tank-raised species is the right thing to do.

An Interview with James Lawrence, Editor and Publisher of CORAL Magazine

Coral is one of the most respected magazines in the marine aquarium hobby. The English language edition of Koralle, Coral has appeared in print in the United States for the past five years, although its publication almost came to an end in late 2008 when the previous publisher, EcoSystem Aquariums, failed to complete the December 2008 issue. That is when Reef to Rainforest Media, LLC. And, more specifically, James Lawrence, stepped in to ensure that this valuable publication would not only remain available to English readers, but would also increase in quality and circulation. James--who in addition to being the new editor and publisher of Coral is an award-winning publisher of books and magazines and the founder of Microcosm, LTD--was a kind enough to take a few moments to answer some questions for SaltwaterSense.com.

SS: When Koralle was first conceived in 1999, what was it that set it apart from other aquarium magazines?

JL: The goal was to publish readable and reliable articles from experts, both home aquarists and marine biologists, with a mind-boggling use of brilliant photography, and very high production values.

SS: When was the English language edition of Coral launched, and what was its reception in the United States? What other international versions of the magazine are currently in production?

JL: Coral has been published in English for five years, and it has become a collector’s magazine, read and kept permanently by many serious aquarists in many countries. It is published in Germany, France, Italy, Poland, and Russia. For the first time, we will be making a serious effort to get our edition into the UK, Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, and other places where English-language magazines are sold.

SS: What is the current relationship between the various editions of the magazine world-wide?

JL: We share content (back and forth) from the German Koralle, the mother ship, ably piloted by Daniel Knop, who is personally known to many US aquarists as intensely interested in the future of marine aquarium keeping.

SS: I have heard it said that Coral provides “a content-driven alternative to most other marine publications currently available to hobbyists.” What does this really mean? Can you give us a few examples?

JL: Sure. In the first issue of 2009, Dr. Ellen Thaler takes a scalpel (maybe a machete) to hobbyists who buy fishes they have no hope of keeping alive. She says many aquarists are chronically underfeeding their fish and argues forcefully that keeping one fish of a species to prevent aggression is just wrong in many cases. Most other magazines wouldn’t have the courage to print such strong opinions, but this is from a woman who clearly knows reef fish behaviors. Even I don’t agree with every word she says, but she makes one think (and she knows how to get Moorish Idols to thrive!).

SS: Again, I have heard it said that Coral provides “a bridge” between the ecosystems upon which the hobby depends and the hobby itself. How so?

JL: Coral is where the world’s most enthusiastic reefkeepers collide with marine biologists and professional public aquaria aquarists. It’s an exciting forum that works at many levels, even for newcomers. There is an element of being on the unpredictable cutting edge that I, as a reader, always love. I find that world-renowned scientists and the t-shirted livestock manager at my local store both have the same respect for the same magazine. It’s quite extraordinary.

SS: Can you give us an example?

JL: In one issue you might find Anthony Calfo telling us how to frag Ancantastrea and Dr. J.E.N. Veron, the father of coral taxonomy, tackling the genus from his field observations. Then you might have the world’s finest underwater close-up shots by Denise Nielsen Tackett of stunning Acans in the world.

SS: Coral has always been known for its aesthetic appeal—it is, in short, a beautiful publication with an attention to detail in layout and design that is unusual for a “hobby rag.” Does Reef to Rainforest Media, LLC intend to maintain the same level of artistry that has made Coral a sought-after collector’s item?

JL: I would simply ask people to watch what we do. We will be spending more on content, printing, and getting the magazine into the hands of readers. It hasn’t been the easiest magazine to find in the past.

SS: It has been claimed by the magazine that Coral (as well as Koralle and the other international editions) is the leading reef magazine in the world. Is this the current owners’ and editors’ position?

JL: Sounds immodest, but there is no other print marine magazine that comes close to the circulation of the English edition of Coral, let alone to the combined international reach of all other editions. There are certainly bigger aquarium magazines, some very good, but none exclusively aimed at reef and marine hobbyists.

SS: The appeal of the magazine to marine aquarium hobbyists and professional aquarists is clear, but you also have said that marine biologists are an important audience. In your experience, do you find many marine biologists subscribe to, contribute to and/or read Coral? Do they view the magazine as more than a “hobby” publication? If so, why? Can you cite one or two?

JL: Among those in the Coral circle of contributors are marine scientists such as Dr. Gerald Allen (coral reef fishes), Dr. Jack Randall (coral reef fishes), Dr. Charlie Veron (stony corals), Dr. Phil Alderslade (soft corals), Dr. Rob Toonen (marine inverts). Among the many Microcosm authors helping are Scott Michael (reef fishes), Matt Wittenrich (marine fish breeding), Alf Nilsen & Svein Fosså (beginning to advanced reefkeeping), and many more.

Our Board of Advisors ranges from Martin Moe, father of the modern marine hobby in my opinion, to Sylvia Earle,(former Chief Scientist of NOAA), a passionate spokesperson for saving the oceans (and a keen supporter of marine aquariums, by the way).

SS: What influenced Reef to Rainforest Media, LLC’s decision to take on the license to publish Coral? How does it fit in with the overall mission and philosophy of Reef to Rainforest Media?

JL: I believe I first met Daniel Knop at one of the very early MACNA Conferences, and there is a great deal mutual respect. When the former US publisher failed to complete the December 2008 issue, Daniel and I connected with some urgency. People like Julian Sprung and others joined us in wanting to be sure Coral and its readers continued without missing an issue.

At Microcosm, which is sharing space with Coral, we have always tried to blend trustworthy information, great photography, and a respect for the natural reef environment. The whole Koralle/Coral empire is built on the same foundation by people who love aquariums and care about the future of coral reefs.

SS: What is the status of former subscribers to Coral? Will they continue to receive the magazine as long as their subscription is current, or do they need to re-subscribe?

JL: The former publisher, Mr. Leng Sy of EcoSystem Aquariums, has cancelled all former subscriptions. He refused to transfer or even sell them to the owners of Coral. We are ready to make all them happy if they contact us. We believe in the contract between a publisher and his or her readers to deliver what was paid for.

SS: As editor and publisher, what are your specific goals for the magazine in the upcoming year?

JL: We are increasing circulation by 33% immediately. Coral has been enthusiastically accepted for national distribution into the busiest Barnes & Noble, Borders, Books A Million and Hastings Bookstores. We have a thriving new online subscription center set up especially to help former subscribers who are frantic to re-subscribe.

We are going to be working with LFS Locator.com and hundreds of the best independent local stores to strengthen the fundamentals of this hobby, one that uniquely needs great local resources in addition to conscientious online dealers.

SS: Tell us a little about what we might expect in the first issue, and when readers will have the opportunity to get their hands on it.

JL: We have proofs of the whole issue pinned up on about 20 feet of office hallway, and everyone in the building is blown away. Matt Wittenrich’s extreme closeups of Mandarinfishes breeding and juvenile Mandarins are worth the price of admission. The triggerfishes cover story is a definitive guide to some of the most intelligent and interesting fishes we can keep. Scott Michael pitches in a review of triggers that can be trusted in the reef aquarium, and Anthony Calfo debunks a bunch of myths about reef lighting. Sometimes more is way too much. It will mail in the last week of January.

SS: Is there anything else you’d like to say about Coral?

JL: We hope people will take a look and judge for themselves. Our introductory offer gives people a first issue free. If anyone is disappointed, they get all their money back. We are betting that people will love it. We want to take a very good magazine and make it even better—a must read for the passionate marine aquarist.

To subscribe to the new CORAL Magazine and get one issue free, click here!

Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes and Inverts Need Their Vitamins

Adding a vitamin supplement to your tropical marine aquarium food is a good idea in most situations. A lack of certain vitamins can lead to slow growth and faded colors and, in a worst case scenario, deformities, weight loss and worse. Sick or diseased fishes will also recover faster if they are not suffering from any vitamin deficiencies.

You’ve heard of people taking fish oil supplements as part of their daily health regiment, Right? Well fish oils are loaded with fat-soluble vitamins including vitamins A, D, E, and K, which are responsible for everything from general healthy growth to antioxidant effects. Fish require these fat-soluble vitamins for optimal health, and they get them from sources such as fish flesh, shellfish flesh, worms, and seaweed. Feeding a varied diet including marine fish and crustacean flesh, as well as some live foods, is the first step to insuring sufficient quantities of fat-soluble vitamins in tour fishes’ diet.

In addition to fat-soluble vitamins, marine aquarium fishes require water-soluble vitamins (most important are B and C). These vitamins are critical to healthy growth, metabolism, strong immune systems, and digestion among other critical functions. Fishes get water-soluble vitamins from a variety of sources, but they can be taken directly from the aquarium water if the vitamins are present in the water. Food sources of vitamin B and C include the same sources as mentioned above for vitamins A, D, E, and K. Vitamins B and C can also be added directly to the aquarium water.

Many aquarists rely on a varied diet finely tuned to their stock in order to insure proper vitamin uptake. It is, however, a good idea in my opinion to also soak the food in a commercially available vitamin supplement before feeding (especially frozen and freeze-dried foods). To avoid vitamin deficiencies in your fishes, consider using a supplement as a regular part of your husbandry protocol.

Be sure the supplement you use does not contain phosphates, nitrates or yeasts, which can all negatively affect your water quality. Some aquarists use vitamin C liquids and other vitamin products from their local health food store, but there are many commercially available supplements to consider including Kent Zoe, Boyd Vitachem, and Kent Marine C.

Fish, like people, need their vitamins. Feeding a varied diet and using a supplement will insure the long-term health, growth and beauty of your animals.

Tank Stability in the Saltwater Aquarium

A gentleman by the name of Steve wrote to me recently with the following problem:

MY WIFE AND I HAVE A 65 GALLON TANK THAT HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED FOR OVER 14 MONTHS AND RECCENTLY WE HAVE BEEN HAVING BIG PROBLEMS WITH THE WATER---WE USE A MAGNUM 350 WITH THE POLISHING FILTER (PAPER STYLE)--AND ALSO USE A CASCADE 3 STAGE FILTER SYSTEM WE USE CULLIGAN WATER BUT THIS WEEK AFTER THE WATER CHANGE ONLY 2 DAYS AGO 20% CHANGE AND CLEANED AND RENEW THE FILTERS LIKE ALWAYS BUT THE WATER IS VERY CLOUDY AND GETTING WORSE---8 WEEKS AGO WE TREATED FOR BACTERIA INFECTION THIS TOOK 5 DAYS AND THEN BUSINESS LIKE NORMAL--THE TREATMENT HELP A LOT WE THOUGHT THE WATER LOOKED BETTER THAN BEFORE BUT NOW LIKE I SAID THE WATER IS GETTING CLOUDY AND ALL THE TESTS ARE AT NORMAL LEVELS--WHAT AM I DOING WRONG--ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREAT

I thought I would share Steve’s question as an opportunity to speak broadly on the topic of troubleshooting tank problems and touching on my favorite topic—tank stability. When we start a marine tank, we are attempting to replicate a slice of the ocean. If we appreciate that the ocean is a remarkably stable environment, then we can also appreciate that maintaining stability in the home aquarium is critical to success. Likewise, a change in stability often results in problems—perhaps like the problem Steve describes.

To begin, I am a firm believer that a marine tank really needs a full year to stabilize and begin performing as the aquarist originally intended. Because Steve’s 65-gallon tank is 14 months old, his sudden change in water quality is of even greater concern to me than if his tank was only four months old.

Whenever something goes wrong in one of my tanks, the first thing I do is check my parameters—especially nitrates, phosphates and pH. Steve did check his parameters, and he reports that all his parameters are normal, although I’d like to know which parameters he tested.

If water testing does not help me pinpoint a water quality issue such as Steve describes, then my next course of action is to work back through my husbandry to the last thing I did that was unusual.  For example, did I recently add a new animal? Did I begin dosing a supplement? Did I change my filtration system? Did I (as is the case with Steve) treat the tank for a specific problem?

Steve says he treated for a bacteria infection two months ago, and this is where I would probably begin my line of questioning. What was the bacteria infection? What did Steve use to treat it? It does seem strange to me, however, that the water quality improved following the treatment.

If I were in Steve’s shoes, I would do the following:

• Continue to monitor the water parameters daily (at the same time each day) and record the results so he can see any trends over time.

• Review the tank’s bioload. How many animals are in the system? Is the tank overstocked? Are there compatibility issues that may be affecting water quality? Is the filtration system sufficient for the current bioload?

• Observe any changes in the animals’ behavior. Are fishes “gasping” or “breathing hard”? Are the fishes active? Are they acting normally based on previous observations? Are corals inflated and feeding, or are the polyps retracted?

• Review the tank’s regular maintenance schedule and husbandry practices. For example, is Steve changing out all the filtration media at once? If so, this can cause a major disruption in water stability, and a simple change in tank maintenance protocol may be the ticket. Alternatively, did Steve start using a new food like a liquid food for filter feeders to feed a newly added coral specimen? If so, a change in feeding frequency, amount or brand may solve the problem.

In terms of proactive actions, a series of water changes would be my first choice. I would mix up a large batch of saltwater and allow it to age for at least 24 hours and then begin a series of major water changes over a series of days making sure that pH, salinity and temperature match the tank’s parameters.

In general, our saltwater tanks are a microcosm of the world’s oceans, which are a remarkably stable environment. Stability in our aquaria is the Holy Grail, and we need to realize that EVERYTHING we do to our microcosm can affect that stability. The problems we experience with water quality are often the direct result of a disruption in stability, and that disruption is often a direct result of something—chemical or biological—that we added to or subtracted from the system. Identifying the culprit is often the first step to resolving the issue and re-establishing stability.

 

 

Take it Slow When Starting a New Saltwater Aquarium

Thousands of new saltwater aquaria were born yesterday, as people across the country gave and received fish tanks for Christmas. Whether a “Nemo” tank for the kids, a predator tank for dad or a gorgeous reef for mom, all of these new systems have one thing in common—their success will depend on patience.

The single most important thing a marine aquarist can and should do is “go slow.” Very few things done on impulse or quickly end well in this hobby. Whether it’s taking the time to properly cycle your new tank or appropriately quarantining new arrivals, taking it slow is critical.

There will be many animals you want to add to your system based on the tank you envision having set-up and running next Christmas, but remember—that’s a whole year away. Do your research up-front. Establish a stocking list based on compatibility and budget. Then go slow.

Get online and join a good forum for marine aquarists (like the one here at Saltwaterfish.com). Join your local marine aquarium society. Hang out at local fish stores. Visit public aquaria. If you live near the ocean, go diving and snorkeling more. Everything you read, observe and learn will make you a better marine aquarist in the long run.

I know it’s so tempting to run out and stock your tank to the gills, but this will surely lead to disaster. Trust me, and you will have a marine aquarium to enjoy for years and years to come.

Saltwater Fish Don't Get Ich; They Get Crypto

I was talking to a friend the other day, and he told me that he had "ich." In any other context, that would be a baffling statement, but, as a marine aquarist, I knew exactly what he meant, even though he was using the wrong terminology.

Wrong terminology? How so, you ask.

Saltwater Fish Don’t Get “Ich”

Simply stated, marine fishes don’t get ich. The term “ich” refers to the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis, which is a freshwater parasite. When marine aquarists speak of “saltwater ich,” they should be saying “crypto,” as the saltwater condition is called cryptocaryonosis, and it is caused by the parasite Cryptocaryon irritans.

Why Do Marine Fish Get Crypto

It is my contention that there is a lot we don’t know about crypto. The one thing I do feel confident saying, however, is that the leading impetus behind a crypto outbreak is stress. Obviously stress in and of itself does not cause crypto, but stress challenges a fish’s immune system, and it is when the fish is in this compromised state that the parasite most easily gains a foothold and an outbreak may ensue.

It doesn’t matter if you bought your new fish at Saltwaterfish.com or your local fish store—that fish may well be stressed, and adding that new fish to your established aquarium may cause your other fishes to become stressed. All this potential stress provides an ideal environment for a crypto outbreak, which is why it is essential to eliminate stress wherever you can. Now rest assured, the majority of first time marine aquarium fish buyers don’t experience a crypto outbreak, but to make your husbandry practices bullet proof, be sure to watch the acclimation video on Saltwaterfish.com, take things slowly and do all you can to reduce the stress.

As Scott Hughes, owner of Saltwaterfish.com, says in the acclimation video on the website, a quarantine tank (or simply QT) is “a small investment that pays great returns.” I strongly suggest you have a QT tank and that you quarantine nearly every new fish before adding it to the display tank. Let me repeat that, as there is no more important single piece of advice when it comes to avoiding cryptocaryonosis: ALMOST EVERY NEW FISH SHOULD BE QUARANTINED BEFORE BEING ADDED TO YOUR DISPLAY TANK. As you will hear every experienced hobbyist reiterate until they are blue in the face, patience is the key in the hobby. Don’t rush anything.

The Life Cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans

Let's get back to crypto itself, however. A fish infested with Cryptocaryon irritans is sometimes said to be suffering from “white spot disease” because this is how the parasite is most observable to the aquarist. The so-called white spots are actually the trophant phase of the parasite’s life cycle. The trophant phase is where the parasite is attached to the fish (its host) and feeding. After a period of days (up to one week), the parasite drops off the fish and becomes free-swimming. It then divides (the tomant stage) and can lay dormant as cysts for nearly a month (depending on temperature) before the cysts break apart and the parasite, now in the tomite stage, seeks out a host. We are now back to the trophant phase and “white spot disease.”

Did I lose you? As I explained this to my friend, his eyes glazed over—he just wanted to save his fish, after all. I know. I know. But it is essential to understand how Cryptocaryon irritans works if you are going to successfully eradicate it from your system, and that is the goal, correct? So let’s now talk about getting rid of a crypto outbreak.

Treatment

Above I outlined the three life stages of Cryptocaryon irritans. They are:

1. Trophant (up to one week)

2. Tomant (up to one month)

3. Tomite (one or two days)

It is important to understand that it is only during the tomite phase that the common treatments for crypto are effective, and this phase, as mentioned above, lasts only a day or two.

Copper

Most commonly copper is used to treat crypto, and because copper is lethal to almost all invertebrates, the treatment usually happens in a separate hospital tank. Because the life cycle of the parasite can be as long as a month, with only a small one to two day window, when treatment is truly effective, the fishes must be kept in the medicated hospital tank for four weeks. During this time, the display tank must have no fishes in it so that any tomites that hatch will not find a host.

Unfortunately copper, despite its effectiveness, is known to have long-term negative effects on certain fishes. This has led some aquarists to seek alternatives to copper treatment, and there are several.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity (again in a hospital tank, as it will harm or kill inverts) is one possible alternative to copper, especially if combined with dips (see below). Effective hyposaline conditions require the specific gravity to be around 1.010. It is recommended to use hyposalinity in conjunction with copper, if copper is the treatment employed.

Dips

Using freshwater dips dosed with formalin and malachite green for a period of three to four weeks can be effective, especially when the water in the hospital tank is changed out (otherwise reinfestation may occur). In my opinion, the dips can be as effective as treating the hospital tank with formalin and malachite green, and you run less risk of endangering the infested fish’s immune system. Having said that, some aquarists forgo the dips and simply treat the hospital tank with formalin and malachite green. Whichever you choose, follow the directions or seek out the advice of an advanced aquarist.

Chloroquine Phosphate

Using chloroquine phosphate to treat crypto is a relatively new protocol with which I do not have first-hand experience, but I have heard very good things. Bob Goemans and Lance Ichinotsubo discuss this treatment in their book The Marine Fish Health & Feeding Handbook (Microcosm/TFH 2008). If you want to know more about chloroquine phosphate, just ask (or get the book).

Review

Okay, let’s review:

• You observe white spots on your fish.

• You do not refer to the condition as “ich”; instead you call it crypto or, if you want to sound really cool, cryptocaryonosis.

• You move all of your fish to a hospital tank leaving the display tank without any hosts for the parasites in the tank.

• You decide on a treatment protocol and begin treatment.

• You stick with the treatment for four weeks.

• You reintroduce your fishes to the display tank and go about your merry way.

Gift Certificate! The Best Gift for the Marine Aquarist

There has been some buzz this Holiday Season about gift cards given the rocky economy. This got me wondering about gift cards in the marine aquarium industry, and today’s blog entry offers my musings on the topic.

The Best Gift for the Marine Aquarists on Your List

If you know someone who has a saltwater aquarium, the best possible gift for them is probably a gift certificate. When it comes to the saltwater aquarium hobby, everyone’s tank is different, and I’m not just talking reef tanks versus fish-only systems. No, I’m talking about systems with protein skimmers and systems without. Predator tanks and peaceful community tanks. Systems where dosing a variety of supplements is a regular part of daily husbandry, and systems that have never had a supplement added. In short, there are way too many configurations and personal preferences that go in to each aquarium for anyone besides the aquarist themselves to buy anything for the system.

So what are the options if a marine aquarist is on your list? You could always buy the aquarist a sweater with a fish on it (which they will probably never wear)…

…or you can buy a gift certificate. Now wait! you protest. Why can’t you just ask the person exactly what they want for their aquarium and then buy it, wrap it up and give it to them? Perhaps I’m old-fashioned, but I for one really like the surprise part of giving (and receiving) a gift, and here’s where a gift certificate comes in to play. A gift certificate allows the giver to maintain the surprise AND give the aquarist exactly what they want. Further, for the aquarist who has everything, a gift certificate is one of the few gifts that will definitely be used, as no aquarist ever has everything he or she needs.

The Gift that Keeps on Giving for a Lifetime

Know someone who doesn’t yet have a saltwater aquarium but may like to have one? A gift certificate can be the perfect way to introduce someone to the hobby. Consider giving a gift certificate AND a “card of commitment” promising that you will help guide the set-up of the new tank. What a cool way to give a gift to a child, niece or nephew that will keep on giving over a lifetime of involvement in the hobby.

Finally, I like the fact that giving a gift certificate is something that can be done online—no traffic, no malls, no gauntlet of well-intentioned money collectors asking for a holiday donation. With the Saltwaterfish.com gift certificate, for example, you simply go to the “Gift Certificate Purchase Page” and purchase it just like you would purchase anything else from the site. You can add a note and then either print it out and wrap it, or Saltwaterfish.com will deliver it for you via e-mail on the date you determine. AND a Saltwaterfish.com gift certificate never expires!

What could be easier? So if there is a marine aquarist (or a potential marine aquarist) on your list this year, seriously consider giving him or her a gift certificate—it is, in my opinion, the ultimate gift!

Marine Monuments and Marine Aquarists

A Proposed Marine Monument off the Northern Marianas

In U.S. territorial waters off the Northern Marianas is a remarkable piece of marine real estate which the Bush Administration is considering designating a marine monument. If this area is protected as a marine monument, it will likely insure that George W. Bush will go down in history as the United States president who has, at least on paper, done the most for marine ecosystems (remember the marine monument established off Hawaii two years ago?).

A Unique Underwater Ecosystem Worth Preserving

The area in question is unique for many reasons, not least of which is the fact that it is home to the ocean’s deepest trench—the Mariana Trench. It is also an area that is relatively untouched and, as such, exists in as close to a pristine state as almost any marine ecosystem on the face of the Earth.

Worthy of protection? Indeed, as a marine aquarist, I think it is.

Opponents to the Marine Monument

Unfortunately, the plan to preserve and protect this area may not become a reality. Because the land is public land, various constituencies are having their say as to why this area should not be designated a marine monument where many activities will be severely limited or even forbidden altogether.

For example, the American Sportfishing Association (ASA) is against the marine monument because recreational fishing would be limited or banned. Energy developers worry that the area could, at some point in the future, be used for energy development, which would also be banned. While the area is not currently critical to the marine aquarium industry, some may wonder if it could be, or they may worry about the precedent set if an activity such as fish collection was banned.

Principles and Motives

While I appreciate in principle the idea that this is public land and everyone has a right to it, I believe strongly that the intrinsic value of the area trumps special interest groups who want to preserve certain forms of recreation or development there.

Now I understand that as a marine aquarist, the formation of a marine monument off the Northern Marianas will probably not directly affect me in the same way that, for example, the ban on Tonga live rock has affected the industry as of late. This, however, is not the reason I support the White House’s plan to create a marine monument there. My motives are quite simple. As marine aquarists, we appreciate the sublime beauty of the undersea world, and I want to do whatever I can to insure that future generations will have a chance to see that beauty in places other than a marine aquarium.

What are Copepods and How Do You Use Them in the Tropical Marine Aquarium

“Cutting edge fish production could be centered around the proper nutrition that could come from copepods.” –Erik Stenn, AlgaGen

Let’s talk a little about live food for marine aquaria, shall we?

Before we get into the actual husbandry practices, I want you to meet Erik Stenn of AlgaGen. AlgaGen, which started as a microalgae producer, is now one of the leading suppliers of rotifers, artemia and copepods for the marine aquarium industry, and, as such, he is a good person to know.

Scott Hughes of Saltwaterfish.com, one of the first retailers to carry AlgaGen products, says, "Algagen has been on the forefront in developing live aquaculutred foods. We saw the potential very early for our business and have been pleased to offer Algagen products like ReefPods to our customers from the beginning."

Copepod Starter Cultures for the Public

Erik started AlgaGen in 2002 with the purpose of using microalgae to produce hi-value products for human and animal health, as well as for biomedical purposes. Erik began working with Andrew Rhyne at the Florida Institute of Technology, and it was Andrew who recognized that producing microalgae could lead to the production of copepods. “There were a number of vendors producing copepods,” he acknowledges, “but no one was offering a collection of starter cultures to the public.”

Enter AlaGen.

Today AlgaGen works with Andrew Rhyne (Roger Williams University), Dr. Adelaide Rhodes (Essential Live Feeds) and Dr. Cortney Ohs (University of Florida) to offer an extensive production-oriented collection of copepods to anyone interested in using them to raise fish. Why so much effort on copepods? “As bizarre as it seems to me,” says Erik, “cutting edge fish production could be centered around the proper nutrition that could come from copepods.”

Wow! But How?

Okay…so most marine aquarists have heard of copepods and some may have even bought them and poured them into their tank because they….well…they do something good, right? But what are copepods really? And, perhaps more importantly, what do they do?

In short, copepods are a small crustacean, and there are seven orders of them (calanoida, harpacticoida, cyclopoida, misophrioida, monstrilloida, siphonostomotoida, and poecilostomatoida). Aquarists are interested in the copepods that are useful, non-detrimental food sources. With Erik’s help, let’s cover the basics and touch on how to use the right copepods in your tropical marine aquarium.

Calanoids

Calanoids (the nauplii pictured here is a baby copepod from the calanoids) are pelagic copepods—they spend their entire life cycle in the water column—and they are an essential food source for any marine organism that feeds in the water column including fish, larval fish and coral. “These copepods eat microalgae,” explains Erik, “and they concentrate the fatty acids from the microalgae in their bodies.” In short, when marine organisms eat the copepods, they obtain the essential fatty acids concentrated in the copepods. This is the number one reason why feeding these copepods to marine ornamental fishes is highly recommended.

In addition to being nutrient rich, these copepods display, what Erik refers to as “a very spastic movement,” which may well trigger a more enthusiastic feeding response. “When I drop calanoids into my tank,” Erik says, “the anthias feed with real vigor.”

While the calanoids are great food items, they do not survive for long. “Life cycles can typically be 20-30 days,” says Erik. “The calanoid will either release eggs or brood them and release live nauplii that will go through several molts to become juveniles then adults.”

Harpacticoids

Harpacticoids (e.g., Tigriopus and Tisbe like the one pictured at the top of this entry) are, unlike calanoids, benthic copepods. “They like substrate and will feed on microalgae, detritus or other copepods,” explains Erik. “Tigriopus is carnivorous; Tisbe is a detritivore, and both are cannibalistic. They will also eat fish flake food and microalgae.” These are the "ReefPods" sold at Saltwaterfish.com (and, by the way, they are on special right now! Buy one get one free!).

These are the copepods aquarists have probably seen on their live rock, and they are the ones most commonly sold. “They can handle harsh conditions such as being stored in a bag or bottle for weeks, and they can survive in a reef tank,” adds Erik. Harpacticoids make great food items for seahorses, mandarins (which, at the time of publication, are on special) and wrasses. They can and should be added repeatedly to ones' tank, and, depending on how the tank is stocked, these copepods can easily be “grazed back” to a minimal population fairly quickly.

Other Copepod Groups

The cyclopoid, monstilloid, siphonostomatoid, poecilostomatoid groups of copepods are not as good as a live food source as these groups contain the commensal and parasitic copepods.

Husbandry How-To

Okay, so now that we know which copepods to use, how should we incorporate copepods into our regular husbandry practices? It’s simple, says Erik.

“They can be added to an aquarium as often as one wants. If there is a refugium as part of the set-up, copepods can be added to the refugium. They should reproduce there without being grazed as long as there is food. Copepods growing in the sump or refugium are potentially introduced into the top tank by the return pump. They can also be added directly into the top tank. The safe way to add them is without the skimmer on but it is not necessary to turn it off. Some people add them during the dark cycle when fish are not about.”

In terms of food for copepods, AlgaGen offers microalgae starter cultures for aquaculturists, researchers and hobbyists.

Bottom Line for Copepod Use in the Saltwater Aquarium

What’s the bottom line? “Whether they are THE food source or one of THE critical food items,” says Erik. “the use of copepods in fin-fish production has demonstrated greater survivals and lower deformities for specific species. Copepods may be critical to raising species of ornamentals that cannot be raised on rotifers or brine shrimp.”

While some argue that its husbandry, not a specific food item, that has led to success with certain species that appear to do well with copepods, there is little doubt that employing copepods as part of your regular husbandry practices is a very, very good idea.

A special "thank you" to Erik at AlgaGen for the images above.

Disaster or Renewal? Tropical Reefs and the Responsibility of the Saltwater Marine Aquarist?

In case you missed it, there was an interesting thread in the forums (under the “Responsible Aquarist” category) this July about reef degradation entitled “Bad News Please Read This”.

“Almost half of the coral reef ecosystems in the United States territory are in poor or fair condition, mostly due to rising ocean temperatures,” wrote the poster citing a 7 July 208 NOAA report. “It does not paint a pretty picture of our world reefs, but it is important reading for all of us.”

But most responders seemed not to agree. To wit:

“If someone is getting paid millions of dollars to write a 569 page report that took 18 months to write, well they better have some bad news for us. The sky is falling, the sky is falling!!"

“As for the elevation of temperatures, it is my humble opinion that many species will adapt to the changing water conditions, others will evolve. Certainly species will be lost. Not that that isn't a concern, it is. The reefs have been around for a very long time though. I am sure that the water conditions are not the same as they once were.”

“This use [sic] to concern me, but not much anymore… If they were that worried about it, they could build as many ‘reefs’ as they wanted, anywhere in the world. If the temps are to [sic] high in one area, move to a cooler location. It's really not as hard as it once seemed. And if we can build the kind of reefs we have in our living rooms, just think of what can be done in the ocean.”

“As others said, nature will balance itself out. Some creatures will adapt, some will go extinct, some will become totally new species. Maybe that will include some culling of the human herd in the process. Some call it disaster. I call it renewal.”

“IMO the global warming, psyco hard environmentalist [sic] just want you to feel bad for being human. Everything is our fault and there is always a new disaster that is just around the corner that is some man made. Anything to scare society so they can grip just a bit tighter and take more control(money) out of the hands of regular citizens.”

Let’s go back a moment to the forum category title—the Responsible Aquarist, and then let’s ask this question to which I think the original poster was alluding:

Should (as in the moral “ought”) the responsible aquarist familiarize oneself with scientific data discussing the health of the ecosystems from which the majority of our animals are collected?

Now before you jump on my back, allow me to clarify—I know that coral for the hobby is not collected in the Caribbean, and I realize the report the original poster cited was about the Caribbean. Nonetheless, the discussion quickly took on a global slant, and that is to what I am referringhere: the health of reef ecosystems worldwide.

So what responsibilities (if any) do we, as (aspiring) responsible aquarists, have to educate ourselves about tropical reef health? Should we be familiar with the reports such as the NOAA report that the original poster asked us to read, or are we too distrustful of “chicken little” environmentalists to give any credence to reports that speak of global climate change, sea surface temperature rise, endangered species, and the like?

I suspect the answer is, as usual, somewhere in the middle. In the name of raising awareness, there are numerous reports (it is the International Year of the Reef after all) discussing the plight of the world’s reefs. Do some of these reports devolve to alarmism? Most certainly yes. But, on the other hand, there are so many reports out there—so much data collected by researchers from different countries, with different politics and as parts of different scientific studies, and nearly all say essentially the same thing:

“The world’s tropical reefs are in trouble and anthropogenic stressors are, at least in part, to blame.”

As responsible marine aquarist, it seems to me we should have a baseline familiarity with the ecosystems we attempt to replicate in our homes.

I’ve already rambled longer that I intended to, but allow me to finish with this suggestion. The original poster may have a political agenda. He (at least I think the poster is a he) may be a tree-hugging, Birkenstock-wearing crunchy environmentalist. But notice that what he did was to post data (or at least to direct us to a report based on data). Is the NOAA report infallible? Of course not, but why not respond to the data laid out in the NOAA report with data? Not one of the responders attempting to discredit the NOAA report put forth any data to support his or her response. There are plenty of places on the Internet (even in the SWF.com’s forums…lol) to spout off about one’s politics based on anecdotal evidence, and I encourage you to do so, but when a person starts a thread in the Responsible Aquarist forum based on data, why not respond with data?

It is my opinion that such a dialog would help us all, regardless of politics and personal opinions, become better and more responsible aquarists.

Fish Food Tainted with Melamine

The New York Times reported this week that Hong Kong food inspectors found fish food imported from China was contaminated with melamine. Yep, melamine—that’s the toxic chemical responsible for the Chinese milk debacle and the tainted pet food that led to the largest pet food recall in this country’s history.

According to The New York Times, “Inspectors said fish feed imported from Fujian Province in southern China was found to have 6.6 parts per million, more than twice the level of melamine deemed safe for food.”

The acceptable level of melamine in the United States is 2.5 parts per million.

Does this mean that your marine aquarium fish food might poison your fishes? Probably not. Most of the contaminated fish food is used to feed fish on an industrial level at fish farms. Hong Kong officials have announced that “melamine-tainted fish feed would probably not pose serious health problems for people who consumed fish because consumers would not be directly eating the melamine.”

At least one manufacturer of aquarium fish food pulled their aquarium product off the shelves in 2007 when the Food and Drug Administration announced that melamine was identified in fish feed being used at the Marion Forks Hatchery in Oregon. In a press release, Sergeant's Pet Care Products, announced it voluntarily removed ornamental fish food products from retail store shelves.

A portion of the production lots of Atlantis® Goldfish Flake Food and Atlantis® Tropical Fish Flake Food have been found to contain the contaminant, melamine. Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food and Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food are products that are formulated specifically for the feeding of ornamental fish, such as a goldfish and Neon tetra. Atlantis fish food is not formulated for the feeding of fish intended for human consumption.

To be safe, it’s probably worth making sure that, at least in the short term, your marine aquarium fish food does not have the nearly ubiquitous “Made in China” label on it.

A Tropical Saltwater Aquarium Refugium

Today I want to briefly touch on the oft-misunderstood and somewhat mysterious refugium or “fuge,” as it is often referred to in the hobby. This entry is not meant to be a comprehensive article on refugia, but rather I hope it might inspire you to add a refugium to your existing marine aquarium set-up.

What is a Refugium?

The origin of the word refugium is rooted in the common term “refuge,” and that’s exactly what a refugium provides for your marine aquarium. A refugium is a refuge for macroalgae, pods and certain interesting species that may not survive in your display tank as a result of predation. Do you need a refugium? While I’d hesitate to go so far as to say you need one (uness, of course, you keep dragonets or anthias), I definitely recommend you seriously consider adding a refugium to your system.

Refugium Benefits – The Short List

Why do I strongly recommend adding a fuge to most systems? For starters, a properly maintained refugium—even a small one—will prove beneficial to virtually any and all marine aquarium set-ups. More specifically, a refugium:

·         provides a refuge in which healthy pod populations (excellent food for species such as anthias and dragonets) will thrive.

·         provides a place where various herbivorous foods (e.g., macroalgae) can be grown without being consumed by your herbivores until you harvest it.

·         provides additional overall water volume to your system.

·         can mediate daily pH fluctuations secondary to your lighting schedule.

·         can serve (depending on size) as an emergency holding tank for a harassed animal (although you should always have a QT/hospital tank at the ready).

·         promotes nutrient export through regular trimming and disposal of cultivated macroalgea.

…the list goes on and on, but you get the point. A refugium is really a no-brainer, but how do you set it up?

The Plug & Play Refugium

There are a number of ways to plumb a refugium as part of your current set-up. Perhaps the easiest is to use a commercially manufactured HOB (hang on the back) refugium which can, as the name suggests, be hung on the back of either the display tank itself or the sump. Some of these refugia are shipped with a powerhead, but if not, the refugium can be powered with a small, inexpensive one you purchase separately. These commercially manufactured refugia are about as plug-and-play as it gets, but there are other options including sumps that have a “middle chamber” designated as a refugium and my favorite, the display refugium.

The Display Refugium – A Sample Set-Up

If you have the space, I recommend plumbing a display refugium to your system. A display refugium? What’s that? A display refugium is a refugium that is “on display” either above, below or beside your display tank. I’ll use one of my own set-ups (pictured above) to illustrate what I mean.

In this particular set-up, I have plumbed a 10-gallon refugium to a 30-gallon display tank. The refugium, which sits on a shelf below the display tank, is gravity fed from the display tank’s overflow. I have reduced the flow to the refugium by splitting the overflow from the main tank with two ball valves—one to the refugium and one to the sump. The refugium then gravity feeds, by way of a standpipe, to the last chamber (after the protein skimmer) of the set-up’s sump.

Why drain the refugium to a point after the protein skimmer? Does it really matter? I think it does because I want to allow some of the organic material and pods from the refugium to make their way into the display tank by way of the return pump. The protein skimmer may pull these out of the water.

This is the basic set-up, and it works very efficiently in my experience. Don’t forget that, because it is “on display,” you have the opportunity to keep some interesting species in the refugium that may not survive in your main tank.

Deep Sandbed and Macroalgae

Regardless of how you incorporate a refugium into your system, you will probably want to employ a deep sandbed (I like using a commercially available mud product) and grow macroalgae such as Chaetomorpha (pictured left). I also like to jump-start the pod population by adding cultured pods to the newly established aquarium. Don’t stop there though! I grow mangroves and seagrasses in one of my display refugia, which creates a fascinating biotope adding overall appeal to my system.

In short, a refugium is a great way to enhance your existing marine aquarium both in terms of health and interest. If you use your imagination, you can create some absolutely stunning and unique displays.

The Responsible Aquarist

Responsibility. That’s a huge word, and, I suppose, it might have different meanings—different implications—to different people. What does it mean to be a responsible aquarist? And is it even necessary to be a responsible aquarist? I have no obligation, after all, to be a responsible reader, painter or coin collector, do I? These are hobbies, like the marine aquarium hobby, and so long as I don’t break any laws, I am free to conduct my hobby in any manner I see fit. Right?

I think most of us who keep marine aquaria do not agree with the above sentiment. It is not enough to not break the law in the pursuit of the marine aquarium hobby. First of all, there is no law about the ethical treatment of animals to which I am responsible, but few, if any, of us would suggest that justifies inhumane husbandry practices.

Most of us approach the hobby as something more than a hobby. Some of us turn it into a profession by writing about it or breeding animals to sell, but even when we are not earning money from the hobby, we still tend to come at it with a heightened sense of responsibility. We consider it an obligation to read up on the newest husbandry techniques, and we observe our animals with a scientist’s eye. Yes, while it is not the law, most of us are responsible aquarists.

But what about the interface of hobby and industry? What does it mean to be a responsible hobbyist there? Most aquarists I know will not support a local fish store or online retailer of marine livestock that clearly mistreats the animals and appears, at best, shady. But is this what it means to be a responsible hobbyist when it comes to purchasing livestock? Or should we hold ourselves to a higher standard?

The most unethical operation can have the slickest website. The most heinous retailer can have the most beautiful brick-and-mortar store front. Healthy animals can be (and, unfortunately, are) obtained through unsavory (even illegal) channels. There is one Pacific Island nation at present where fish have been collected at the expense of human life. That’s right—collectors have died at the hands of greedy exporters who forced these novice divers to dive too deep, too often and too quickly in pursuit of a small fish that often sells for less than $100.

Have you bought that fish? Wait, you say. There is no way for me to know, is there?

The fish was probably exported to LAX for a wholesaler who may or may not have known the unethical character of the exporter. After quarantine, the fish was probably then shipped domestically, with many other animals, to a local fish store where the owner almost certainly did not know the way the fish was collected. In the tank at the local fish store, the fish looks healthy. You buy it. Does that make you irresponsible?

As hobbyists, we sometimes forget to look behind the curtain, but I would argue that part of being a responsible hobbyist is doing just that. It’s not always easy to do, but understanding the chain of custody for the animals we purchase is something we all should strive to do. Unfortunately, we simply can’t trust that everyone in this industry is in it for the right reasons, and while other accountability plans (e.g. certification) are ongoing, for most of us right now, it really comes down to taking the initiative and taking responsibility.

So what does this look like? While there are some very specific questions you can ask your retailer about the chain of custody (I’ll cover some of those in a future blog entry), the most important thing you can do is have the conversation. Don’t be afraid to ask the retailer where the animals were collected, what collection techniques are being used, and from which importer they buy (unless they buy direct). If the retailer is not conversant in the chain of custody regarding their own animals, that may be a red flag. If the retailer is not willing to find out or share the information you are requesting, that should sound an alarm bell.

Since the SaltwaterSense Blog's home is Saltwaterfish.com, it seems only fair to ask Scott (the owner of Saltwaterfish.com) about Saltwaterfish.com's animals. "We are the importer, wholesaler and retailer combined," says Scott. In short, Saltwaterfish.com buys direct from fishing villages that employ Saltwaterfish.com's protocols, and then they sell direct to their customers. Want to know more? Check out theQuality and Sustainability Video on the Saltwaterfish.com homepage.

As hobbyists, we have purchasing power, and, as responsible aquarists, we can use that purchasing power to build a more responsible industry.

Experimentation in the Hobby

There is a very interesting discussion in the Saltwaterfish.com forums regarding experimentation in the hobby. Henry, who goes by "Spanko" on the Saltwaterfish.com board, started the thread with a pretty simple question: “Is experimentation part of the hobby?" The thread brings up some interesting ideas and questions—not least of which is what is the difference between experimentation and research. The general consensus of the thread seems to be that experimentation is part of the hobby.

I’d have to agree.

After all, it was amateur experimentation that yielded the first successful, so-called “balanced marine aquarium” in England during the first half of 19th century, was it not? It was also experimentation that perfected that aquarium and led to the widespread popularity of keeping marine aquaria in the parlors of Victorian England.

In the first years of the hobby, there was little distinction between experimentation carried out by the inquisitive hobbyist and research conducted by the accepted scientist. In the past 160 some-odd years, the distinction between hobbyist who experiments, professional aquarist who makes a living caring for aquarium species, and scientist who uses aquaria as part of his or her research has become far clearer—often, in my opinion, to the detriment of all concerned. To state it another way, more collaboration between hobbyists, professional aquarists and scientists would benefit the hobby, the science, and the animals (and ecosystems from which they come).

I recently learned that in the second decade of the twentieth century, the New York City Board of Education was funding marine aquarium-based experimentation in public school biology classrooms under the guidance of the New York Aquarium. That’s right, in the years directly following the First World War, many school children in New York City public schools were exposed to marine aquaria as part of the standard science curriculum. By 1919, New York Aquarium staff had installed “balanced marine aquaria” (see above picture) in more than 300 city schools for free and instructed the educators as to appropriate husbandry practices to maintain the aquaria for classroom use.

Today, due to funding shoratges, many public school science classrooms lack hands-on displays that can bring science to life for students. Thankfully, some public institutions are stepping into that vacuum. San Francisco's Aquarium of the Bay, for example, hosted 15,549 students for free during the 2007-2008 academic year (see "Aquarium Serves Students Through Free Education"). "Aquarium of the Bay recognizes the continuous budgeting challenges that Bay Area schools and educators face, and is pleased to supplement science-based education with our classroom and tour programs," says Aquarium of the Bay's Education and Conservation Director Carrie Chen.

But I digress...

So yes, Spanko, I do believe that experimentation is part of the hobby. I think the hobby is where it is today because hobbyists experimented, and many of those so-called experiments have now become SOP. I’m thinking of wet-dry filters, natural systems, UV lighting, species tanks, refugia—the list goes on and on.

While experimentation may have focused largely on equipment in the 1980s and early 90s, I suspect the next wave of hobbyist-centered experimentation that will affect (dare I say revolutionize?) the hobby will be captive breeding experiments by hobbyists. Of course those who experiment must be committed to sharing their experiments in hobby forums, magazines and through local clubs—an experiment in a vacuum, after all, is of little value to your fellow aquarists.

Beyond experimentation in our own aquaria, I think we should also strive to promote responsible hands-on experimentation in schools. What might this look like? Call up a local school and offer to collaborate with a science teacher on designing curricula using a marine aquarium. Invite a neighborhood kid to develop a marine aquarium experiment using your aquarium and under your supervision for which he or she may receive extra credit. Perhaps you are in a position to donate a marine aquarium set-up to a local classroom.

In short, get creative, get involved and, most importantly, get experimenting!

Add Some Flash, Baby!

One of the joys of being a freelance writer with a penchant for marine aquaria is that I frequently get the opportunity to combine researching my own tank with earning a buck by writing about the species we keep (of course the irony is that the buck earned, more often than not, goes to researching the species researched). This week I have been drafting an article on what must be one of my top five favorite groups of marine aquarium fishes--the flasher wrasses from the genus Paracheilinus and I wanted to take a moment to  share some of the love I have for these animals with you.

Flashiest Wrasse

These small fishes (usually less than three inches, although some approach a half foot) are remarkable animals that have developed a unique behavior called "flashing." Flashing, performed only by the males, aids in both courtship and establishing territorial and social superiority. To flash, these fishes use their showy finnage, fast vertical and lateral movements and rapidly changing colors to assert themselves when in the presence of females or other males. Observing a group of these fishes in a large peaceful community reef tank has to be one of the most stunning displays in the entire hobby.

If you have no experience with flasher wrasses, I suggest you give it a go. Consider beginning with the popular Carpenter's flasher wrasse (P. carpenter), which remains small, is readily available, fairly inexpensive, and remarkably hardy. If available, get one male and two or three females. Alternatively, consider getting one male Carpenter's and another male flasher wrasse from a different species. Note that flasher wrasses are most likely to flash when housed in the same aquarium as two or more females of the same species or another male of a different species. A lone male flasher wrasse may rarely if ever flash and its color may fade over time.

Tankmates and Compatibility

Flasher wrasses do need relatively peaceful tankmates such as fairy wrasses Cirrhilabrus spp.), Centropyge angelfishes, rabbitfishes, small clownfishes, blennies, peaceful damselfishes, gobies, assessors, dartfishes, and cardinalfishes. There are obviously many more peaceful fishes that will do quite well with flasher wrasses.

Flasher wrasses, in my opinion, really need an aquarium of at least 30 gallons (larger if you are going to keep a large group, which I strongly suggest). The aquarium should have plenty of live rock and lots of swimming space. Flasher wrasses do not need a sandbed, as they make mucus cocoons in which to sleep (many other wrasses bury themselves in the sand to sleep). Standard reef filtration and circulation is sufficient, and, perhaps best of all, flasher wrasses are indeed reef-compatible.

Feeding

Plan to feed flasher wrasses a frozen, flake or freeze-dried food designed for carnivores (these guys are zooplanktivores). I have never kept a flasher wrasse that did not readily (even eagerly) accept a captive diet, although a new specimen may be shy at first. Supplement the diet with small meaty pieces of marine flesh (e.g., table shrimp, scallops, clams, etc.). It is a good idea to also offer a herbivorous food several times a week. I like to pre-soak their food in a vitamin supplement like Selcon.

For the Collector in You!

For those of you who really take a liking to flasher wrasses, there is a lot more to learn. For example, flasher wrasses are protogynous hermaphrodites (juvenile females can turn to males) that live in harems with one dominant male, possibly one or more subordinate males and several females. With experience, it is possible to successfully mix groups of juveniles of the same species and observe the establishment of the social packing order complete with sex changes--truly a remarkable thing to see!

Hopefully you might share my enthusiasm for these remarkable animals. I'll let you know when the article is published, but in the meantime, seriously consider adding some flash to you tropical marine aquarium today!

Stocking Your Saltwater Tank Like the Dubai Aquarium...NOT

You may or may not have heard about the shark issues facing the Dubai Aquarium. In what is being billed as the world’s single largest captive school of sharks (over 400 sharks and rays), sharks are killing sharks at an alarming rate. Some reports have suggested that the Dubai Aquarium’s sand tiger sharks (Carcharias taurus), of which there are at least 45 individuals, have killed up to 10 percent of the entire population of sharks housed behind the world’s largest viewing panel. As aquarists, we might look at this as a stocking issue of unprecedented proportions.

A Significant Error?

Like the Dubai Aquarium, marine aquarists commonly keep multiple species together in their aquaria. The aquarium-going public is used to seeing tanks that house an impressive array of species that live together in what appears to be a relatively peaceful environment. The Dubai Aquarium, which is set to open at the end of this month (October 2008), will house more than 33,000 aquatic animals representing 85 marine species, but—given the sand tiger shark’s behavior—it seems a significant error may have been made in either the Aquarium’s stocking plan or in their approach to husbandry.

As marine aquarists know, a great deal of forethought must go in to planning any marine aquarium be it a fish only system, an invertebrate aquarium or a full-blown reef tank. Of course there are the equipment considerations, but there is also the all-important stocking plan. A stocking plan is simply the roadmap outlining what animals will be housed in the aquarium and the order in which those animals will be added to the aquarium. While there are many ways to go about creating a stocking plan, I personally prefer the biotope approach.

A Biotope Approach

The biotope approach to stocking an aquarium is, in my opinion, an excellent approach. While not the only approach, it lessens the chances for aggression, provides the opportunity for creating some stunning symbiotic relationships and allows the aquarist to better understand wild ecosystems. The word biotope comes to us from the Greek and literally translates as “life place.”

A biotope approach to stocking your aquarium begins, usually, with a single species that defines the biotope being replicated. This species is generally an animal or plant that spends its whole life within a very small area. In most cases, we are speaking of sessile animals (ones that do not move about very much if at all). In the wild, a coral, anemone, or even a marine plant will attract a host of other organisms that will develop a relationship with the biotope species. Replicating these relationships in the aquarium is a good approach to planning your next tank.

Increasingly Larger Animals Round Out the Aquarium

Working up from the biotope species, the aquarists may choose increasingly larger organisms that are less associated with the biotope species, but which are also native to the biotope being replicated. A commensal invertebrate such as a coral or anemone crab may, for example, spend its entire life within the branches, polyps or tentacles of the biotope species. On the other hand, a reef-associated fish may move through many biotopes in the course of its day.

A nice byproduct of the biotope approach to stocking your tank is that, in addition to coming up with a stocking list, you also develop an appropriate stocking order. One way to think of the biotope approach is that a full tank picture of your fully stocked aquarium may well look like a photograph taken on the reef. Does this mean that every photograph taken on the reef can be the roadmap to your stocking plan? Definitely not.

Research Still Needed to Avoid Problems

As most aquarists know, although a large shoal of yellow tangs may be a common site on some natural reefs, more than one adult yellow tang in a saltwater aquarium (unless it is very large) generally means trouble. As such, even with the biotope approach, it is important to consult compatibility charts and research each individual species before finalizing the stocking list.

Would a biotope approach to stocking have helped the Dubai Aquarium avoid the shark killings they have experienced to date? It’s hard to say given the unprecedented nature of the intended display. It is clear, however, that individuals associated with the Dubai Aquarium had some very specific ideas in mind regarding what would draw the crowds. After all, the Dubai Aquarium is, at least on some level, a means to an ends, and that ends is to bring more people to the world’s largest retail real estate project—the Dubai Mall.

The Dubai Mall's own literature advertises the shark exhibit as “an adrenaline-fueled visual experience.” I would hazard to guess that a biotope approach may have produced a somewhat different result.

From Hurricanes to Customer Service

Florida, home base for Saltwaterfish.com, has had some weather this hurricane season (although nothing like some other places like Haiti and Galveston). I’m happy to report that Saltwaterfish.com weathered the storms well, but hurricane season always gets me to thinking about the immensity of the ocean, global weather patterns and the interactions of ecosystems.

Any storm, be it a hurricane, cyclone, tropical storm, or snow storm, can be a humbling experience with the capacity to remind us of just how frail we really are in the overall scheme of things. For many folks, it is the aftermath of a storm—a 32-foot yacht tossed a quarter mile inland or a pick-up truck upended—that elicits the humility. In my experience, however, marine aquarists don’t need these cataclysmic events to remind them that they are but one piece in an exceptionally large puzzle.

Keeping a marine aquarium is fun—there is no denying that—but it is also a very great privilege. The world’s oceans, and especially the tropical reefs from which so many of our favorite aquarium species originate, are astonishing places that most people will never see. Even those people that do have the privilege to snorkel or dive on an actual reef are only fleeting visitors, but aquarists have the ability to watch the minutia of reef life day-in and day-out. We witness the myriad symbiotic relationships which weave the tapestry of life across great expanses of reef flats, around coral heads and down reef slopes. We understand, as we watch hundreds of forms of life emerge from live rock, that reefs truly are the rainforests of the seas, and we are like kids in a candy shop because we know we have a front row seat.

Saltwater aquarium keeping is magical, and it keeps us connected with a larger world that is too easy to either actively ignore or conveniently forget amongst the daily grind. I don’t mean to say that aquarist are better—we are not—but we are, by in large, somewhat more attuned. For example, what reefer has experienced a coral bleaching event in his or her aquarium and not immediately thought of the massive coral bleaching events that have occurred as of late throughout the tropical western Atlantic and the Indo-Pacific? When we hear that Tonga rock is a thing of the past, don’t we take a moment to wonder why that is? And what about the animals themselves? Animals that, for the most part, have made a truly miraculous journey to us. Releasing a scribbled rabbitfish (Siganus doliatus ) or bluejaw triggerfish (Xanthichthys auromarginatus) or a melanurus wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus) into your aquarium is a direct connection to ecosystems thousands of miles away as well as to the peoples and cultures that depend on those ecosystems for their livelihood. Yes…being a marine aquarist is a very great privilege indeed.

It is also a great responsibility. I opened this blog post discussing a hurricane, and I am now remembering that it was another hurricane (Andrew, wasn’t it?) that was responsible for the release of perhaps the first lionfish (an Indo-Pacific species) into the Atlantic. Unfortunately many more have been released intentionally by aquarists who simply were not thinking. Just this summer I saw an article in The New York Times about wreck-diving in North Carolina, where the author made an off-the-cuff comment about lionfish as being a commonplace part of the underwater scenery. Or what of the Caulerpa outbreak in Southern California in 2000—the first known Western Hemisphere occurrence of a highly invasive aquarium strain that threatened to irreversibly impact a fragile coastal ecosystem? And all because an aquarist took the easy road when cleaning out his or her tank…

Yes, every aquarist does have a great responsibility, but, perhaps even more so, so do those of us in the industry that promote the sale of these species. There comes a time in every professional aquarist’s career when he or she has to make a choice between profit and preservation. Likewise, there comes a time in every marine aquarium business when decisions need to be made about priorities. Is the business model going to be to sell the most fish for the most profit, or is it going to be to put so much emphasis on education that the business folds and everyone loses? Granted, it is not always so black and white, but those of us in the business—those of us who work hard every day to promote a sustainable and robust marine aquarium industry—understand we are dealing with animals, not widgets. We understand that we have a great responsibility to not only provide the means for people to enter this hobby, but also to provide the education that can turn anyone into a successful and responsible aquarist.

Hence, Saltwaterfish.com. If you’ve been around for a while, you will see some real changes here at the Saltwaterfish.com website (take this blog for example). Rest assured that these changes are not smoke and mirrors. Behind every change—be it an enhancement to the website or the way the phone is answered—there is a logic and philosophy that puts a premium on you, the customer and, of course, the animals. Talk to Saltwaterfish.com owner Scott Hughes and you will quickly understand that he realizes the company has a responsibility to every customer and every animal. Saltwaterfish.com has a responsibility to the world’s oceans and to the people whose livelihoods are dependent upon both those oceans and this industry. That’s really where the “new” Saltwaterfish.com begins. It’s why I am excited to be blogging here about the business, saltwater livestock, the marine aquarium industry, and the ecosystems upon which the hobby depends. I am appreciative that you are interested enough to be reading this, and I believe together we can do great things. Until next time…

Welcome to the Saltwaterfish.com Blog

Welcome to the new Saltwaterfish.com blog. In addition to having customer blogs in the forums, Saltwaterfish.com is now starting a feature blog dealing with (you guessed it) saltwater fishes, corals and other invertebrates. My name is Ret Talbot, and I am honored to have the opportunity to provide Saltwaterfish.com site visitors with educational information, news and commentary regarding the saltwater aquarium hobby. Hopefully this blog will prove entertaining, educational and thought-provoking.

For those of you unfamiliar with a blog, it is nothing more than a “web log” (minus the “we”). Think of it as a sort of public journal. While you may not agree with everything written here, I guarantee that reading the Saltwaterfish.com blog will make you think about the hobby, the marine aquarium industry and the ecosystems upon which we are dependent in new ways. One of the best parts of a blog is that you, the reader, are encouraged to become part of the conversation—so please join in with your comments, questions and opinions. In many ways, having the discussion is the most important aspect of being a responsible and knowledgeable hobbyist.

You may wonder why I am writing this blog. Who is Ret Talbot, after all? In short, I am a hobbyist just like you. Many years ago, my grandfather introduced me to the hobby, and today, my wife and I keep at least five aquaria at any one time in our home. In addition to being a hobbyist, I am fortunate to make most of my living writing about marine aquaria and the ecosystems upon which the hobby depends. In terms of my work, I have written several hundred online articles about marine fishes, corals and other invertebrates, and I am a featured blogger over at Microcosm Aquarium Explorer. I am also the co-author (with Mark Martin) of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to the Marine Aquarium (December 2008), which, upon publication, will hopefully encourage many more people to become responsible and knowledgeable aquarists.

Great. Now you know who Ret Talbot is, but you still may not understand why Ret Talbot is blogging at Saltwaterfish.com? The answer is actually quite simple: I spend my days talking to people in the industry, answering hobbyists’ questions and, of course, shopping for new animals for my own tanks. As such, I have known Saltwaterfish.com over the years, but recently I noticed something different about the site, and I wondered what was up. So I got in touch with Scott Hughes, who owns Saltwaterfish.com with his wife, and we had a chat. Suffice it to say I became really excited about Scott’s vision for the company and the direction in which it is headed. Most importantly, I believe in Saltwaterfish.com’s commitment to providing hobbyists with cutting-edge educational information as an essential part of their business model, and I am thrilled to play a role in making Saltwaterfish.com the best educational resource it can be.

So that's that in terms of introductions...see you soon.